|
|
EEOS Original Articles |
|
|
The many articles in our Orchid Culture section can solve most of your culture issues. Check them out before submitting a question. |
|
|
|
|
AOS Culture Sheets |
|
|
The AOS Culture Sheets are very thorough guides for growing orchids successfully. Read the one pertaining to your kind of orchid before asking a culture question. |
|
|
|
|
Ask Your Own Question |
|
|
If the articles and culture sheets in our Orchid Culture section did not solve your problem, feel free to submit your own orchid culture question. |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
(Posted on March 9, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I live in Idaho, where the temperature, even in the summer, can swing 40+ degrees in one day. I would like to try growing an orchid - but considering the weather variances and where I would like to grow them (at work in an enviroment where it would not get any air flow, less the HVAC system), I am not sure if this is the flower for me. What orchid variety would you recommend for a first-time grower, who lacks a lot of time to baby a flower, has climate and lighting considerations? |
|
Jody -
Idaho Falls, ID - USA |
 |
|
|
|
Answer |
| Jody, having not tried to grow orchids in your environment, I can only suggest you contact an orchid society in your area. Here are a few: Valley Orchid Society (Twin Falls, ID), North Idaho Orchid Hobbyists (Coeur d'Alene, ID), and Treasure Valley Orchid Society (Eagle, ID). |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| You could try some of the cooler types of lady slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum). |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on March 9, 2003) |
|
Question |
| Orchid leaves are light green with ripples in them not flat and dark green like they were, why? Please help. Thank you. |
|
Geri -
Palm Beach Gardens, FL - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Geri, without knowing what type of orchid you have, it's difficult to give you a definitive answer. It sounds to me like your plant is getting more light than it was and may be dehydrated. Once you've identified it, please return to our Orchid Culture section and check the growing requirements for you particular orchid. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
(Posted on March 9, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I'm a resident of India sub tropical climate,having all three seasons in full swing. Means in winter temp may be as 4-10 degree C, summer 15 to 43 C. In rainy season humidity will be 90%. Please suggest me few varieties of orchids that can be grown inside or outside inserted in local varieties of trees. Regards. |
|
Ambuj Nayan Srivastava - Ghazipur, Utter Pradesh - India |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Start by growing some local orchids, then try some that come from a different area, but require the same growing conditions that you have. I think Vandas and Dendrobiums might do well in your area. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Hi Ambuj. I did a quick search on the American Orchid Society's web site and found three orchid clubs in India. These would probably be the best source of information for growing orchids in your country. They are: AVT Vanitha Orchid Club (A.V. Thomas & Co. Ltd.-Bio Tech Div. - PO No. 1685, Panampilly Nagar - Cochin, Kerala 682036 - INDIA - Phone: 310156), India Orchid Growers Association (Keshab Chandra Pradhan - Sixth Mile, Tadong - Gangtok, Sikkim 737102 - INDIA - Phone: 91-3592-251704), and Orchid Club of Bombay (P.K. Nevatia - 78, Mount Unique - 62A Peddar Road - Bombay - 400 026 - INDIA - Phone: 578 23 11 - E-mail: harsh@bom2.vsnl.net.in). Good luck. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
(Posted on February 20, 2003) |
|
Question |
| OK. My class has to do a science fair project and I need to know if like pieces of foil and plastic wrap and other stuff like that in the roots will affect the plant's growth. If you can't help me that is ok. Well thanks for trying! |
|
Rachel - Florida, USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Orchid roots like to breathe, so any airless, damp environment will most likely cause root rot. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on February 20, 2003) |
|
Question |
| My wife has had a few orchids around the house and outside for a year or so. But now I've gotten it them and have increased the collection several fold. Since we live in Miami, I was wondering about some of the culture tips that I've read here and on the many orchid sites, and how they apply to my sub-tropical growing climate. Like rest periods, growth periods. Several of my orchids, are still putting out new roots and growth even though it's almost December now is that normal because it's warm here basically all year round? Also the shade quotient is another confusing thing. I have no idea what 35% or 50% shade really looks like. What shade percentage is typical patio screen? This may help a little. Right now I have 3 Vanda's 3 Cattley's 2 dendrobiums and 1 Encyclia phoenicia. |
|
Travis C., Miami, FL - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Travis, your best bet for South Florida orchid culture is our Orchid Culture section, since we are located in the South Dade area. Another good idea is to visit R.F.Orchids. They can answer any and all questions about growing orchids in the South Florida area. Please be sure and tell them you were referred by the East Everglades Orchid Society. I'd also like to take this opportunity to invite you to one of our meetings this year. For information on where and when our club meets, please visit the Meetings section. Thanks for your question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Patio screens are good for 35%-50% shade. You can grow your Cattleyas, Vandas, and dendrobiums there. Winter is a slow-down period for orchid growth, so we typically fertilize once a month in the winter. Protect your orchids from the cold and especially the dry, north winds we get. Late spring is when orchids really start putting on new growth, so make sure you water and fertilize more as the temp rises. also, you might want to check out our Orchid Culture section and read the Articles by the EEOS for good information on growing plants in South Florida. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
|
Question |
| What makes an orchid not bloom? |
|
Betty |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| There are several reasons an orchid won't bloom, starting with the most likely: not enough sunlight, poor root structure, unhealthy plant, not enough water, poor air circulation, poor fertilizing habits, insects, too much light, orchid too dry, worng time of year to bloom, etc.... First, try to identify your orchid (what type) and then follow the culture instructions for that type, which can be found in the Orchid Culture section of our web site. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on October 5, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I am new to orchids and just bought a plant from target about a month ago. The label says Dendrobium (A-220) H1/31/D NINA (A-size) (Nurs REG #47228863). When I bough it in the end of August, it has six realtivley small lavender-pinkish flowers on it ( the tip of the flowers are kind of browned a bit already). I repotted two weeks ago since I feel the potting mix started decomposited. The root is not what I expected like my other orchid (phalaenopsis). The root is not the green root I've seen before, it was covered with brownish loose stuff (? ). I removed some of the brownish loose thing and repotted in orchid potting mix. Then today I see the lowest leaf on the plant is totally yellowed. Can anybody tell me what it is and what is the growing season for this one? And am I doing something wrong by repotting it? Thanks in advance. |
|
Jenny |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| You did the right thing in repotting your orchid. As usual, your plant will show some signs of stress when you repot. The best time to repot is in the late spring so the plants have all summer to establish new, healthy roots. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Jenny, department store type garden departments do not, as a rule, hire orchid experts. Either all the plants get watered, or none do. If you buy an orchid at these places, you should repot it as soon as possible. Please visit our Orchid Culture to get growing requirements for dendrobiums. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
(Posted on October 5, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I have an orchid that used to bloom purple and white. Now everytime it blooms, the flowers are green. Any ideas? |
|
Stephanie - Pembroke Pines, FL - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Stephanie, it sounds like you might have had a tag switched at one time. It's pretty easy to do, especially if you have a lot of plants. Thanks for the question & for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Sometimes a department store orchid will have 2 or 3 different orchids in one pot. This goes on with dendrobiums quite often. You might have bought the orchid in bloom with one color and now the other orchid (different hybrid) is blooming, giving you a green flower. Also, check the name of the orchid. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on October 1, 2003) |
|
Question |
| Hi! I just found your site. I love it! I saw the word "aliflor." What is it? And, what is it used for? My daughter got me my first orchid for my 50th birthday a year ago. Now, I have 14 plants of my own: 1 Cattleya, 3 Dens, 1 Zygo, 1 Brassia, 6 Phals, and 2 Onc. If aliflor would help my plants or any new ones please let me know how. Thanks! |
|
Trudy - Los Angeles, CA - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Trudy, first let me welcome you to the one of the most exciting and rewarding hobbies in the world. Aliflor is expanded clay (ceramic) pellets. It has a neutral pH, is long-lasting and provides excellent aeration. It can be used alone or in any mix. Any orchid supply vendor should have it. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Aliflor is a round synthetic stone or ceramic material about 1 cm in diameter that we add to other organic mixes. We use it in cattleyas, encyclias, phals, or other potted orchids to varying ratios. It dosen't break down or allow any bacteria, fungus, or other critters to hide in it. It also helps aerate the mixture and keeps it from staying too wet and stagnant. Try looking it up on the Internet, or else try your local commercial orchid grower or agricultural media supplier. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on October 1, 2003) |
|
Question |
| After your plant has bloomed, do you cut back on part of the old leaves? My plant is getting very thick with all the leaves and im not sure if you cut them back at all. |
|
CJ - Renton, USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| CJ, without knowing which species of orchid you have, it's difficult to give accurate information. I suggest you visit our Orchid Culture section after you've identified it and read the articles that pertain to yours. Thanks for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| We would need to know what type of orchid you are talking about to be able to give you better advice. Look in the pot for a name tag. If you do not have a tag, look in our Orchid Culture section for line drawings and photographs to aid you in the identification. After you know what kind of orchid you have, write again and we'll be glad to help you. |
|
Fred Armando |
|
|
|
(Posted on September 30, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I am a rank beginner. I purchased 2 orchids - the first a phalaenopsis and the second an oncidium. They are kept in the kitchen in a north window by the sink and put into an east window during the morning. Now my questions: 1) The phalaenopsis has a droopy leaf with wrinkles parallel to the leaf. I usually water about every 5 days with a hose and water the bark medium not the leaves if at all possible. This plant had a poor root structure and was replanted from the sphagnum moss. What am I doing that needs to be changed? It is planted in a ceramic orchid pot. This plant also has nicks on the side and top of its leaves that are light yellowish. Any guesses for cause and solution? 2) The oncidium was a total reject and in bad shape. I planted it in a bark medium in what looks like a wire basket. There is great air circulation and it is also beginning to have those light colored nicks in one leaf. I have got to learn what is going on. I would love to see new root growth on these plants. My only source for optimism is the beginning of 2 new leaves on the oncidium. Thanks for helping me. |
|
Lillian Miller |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Lillian, you pretty much answered you own question for the phal. If the plant had poor roots before it was changed from sphagnum to a bark mixture, it probably needs more water. The moss retains more moisture than bark. I think you'd have better success with the moss. Don't just water on a regular basis. Feel the medium to actually determine if it needs to be watered. Phals need to be kept moist and not allowed to dry out completely. The same could be applied to your oncidium, at least until it gets well established. Please visit our Orchid Culture section and check for info about your plants. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| It's tough to try and resurrect orchids that are in poor shape to begin with. Now with the days getting shorter and winter approaching, this makes it even a greater challenge. Try moving the phal into fresh sphagnum moss. This will help the roots by maintaining a constant humidity. Try and keep the leaves dry so you don't get any bacterial rot, especially with damaged leaves. Older leaves on the oncidium will turn yellow and drop, especially if the plant has no roots. Try to establish new roots before winter. Give the plant as much sunlight (without burning) and watch your new growth. Water sparingly until you get new roots (once a week). Keep up the good air movement. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on September 29, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I have 2 questions: 1) Why don't you have a printing option for your orchid culture articles. When I try to print, I usually get a blank page. 2) You speak alot of the importance of pebbles in water for humidity. As long as the pot does not sit in water, is there any reason why the tray underneath could not have just water without the pebbles? |
|
Addie Weiss - Bethlehem, USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| The pebbles keep the pot from sitting in the water and they also allow for a greater surface area to transpire moisture into the air around the plant. If you have trouble printing the culture sheets, try copying them to Adobe or Microsoft Word. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Lillian, you're correct about the pebbles. They do keep the pot from setting in the water, plus they help control the rate of evaporation. They also provide a more aesthetically pleasing display. Please check our Orchid Culture section for more detailed growing tips. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Lillian, we are in the process of adding a printing option to all our articles. You can try copying the text to a program like Microsoft Word, but you will lose formatting in the process. The easiest way to print the articles is as follows: If you are using Netscape, click on the Print button on the top bar of your browser. (This option will print all frames, one on each page.) If you are using Internet Explorer, right-click on the article and click on Print. (This option will print only the frame you right-click on, so make sure to right-click on the article itself.) If you are still having difficulties, or if you use a different browser, please contact me at webmaster@orchidseeos.com and I will be glad to help you. |
|
Fred Armando |
|
|
|
(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I see a lot of suggestions on saving rootless orchids but none on leafless orchids! Several of my orchids have been badly damaged by excessive sun. They are all recovering with the exception of two seedlings, a Neomoora and a Miltonidium. The leaves have all fallen off the Neomoora, and the Miltonidium is left with one sad/almost falling off leaf and an extremely withered pseudobulb. The roots aren't terrific but ok. How do I save them?! Also, if I am repotting, do I cut off dried roots too, or just the rotten ones? Thank you! |
|
Kristina - San Francisco, CA - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Kristina, It sounds as if your orchids are dehydrated as well as sun damaged. It might be too late, but when repotting, always cut off the rotten roots. Leave the dry ones if they have substance. Are there any green tips on the roots? Try repotting in a fir bark mixture containing charcoal in a slat basket or a pot that has very good drainage. The potting mixture I'm referring to is available at Home Depot, just about any garden center or orchid supply house. After about a week or two, start watering and watch the direct sun. Under a tree with filtered sun would be ideal. One thing to remember is if you use a bark mixture to repot, the plant probably needs to be repotted every other year due to decomposition of the mixture. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I have two orchids, one white, one purple - they bloomed for quite a while and are now gone. How far down do I cut them and do they re-bloom? |
|
Cheryl Stalowski - Oregon, WI - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Cheryl, you can cut the stem right down to the plant since it won't flower from the same stem again. The orchid will put out a new stem in the spring (or whenever it blooms) and new flowers will appear on the new growth. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Cheryl, it sounds as if the orchids you have are phaelenopsis. If that's the case, many times they will bloom a second time from the same spike if it's still green. If the stem is brown and dry you can cut it off as low as you can without damaging the plant. You can find more information in our Orchid Culture section or by visiting some of the links we've provided. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
(Posted on July 31, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I have a large white orchid. It has grown very well and the stem is getting very long. Can orchids be started from cuttings? |
|
S. Byers - Brittish Columbia, Canada |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Some orchids can be started from cuttings, such as Dendrobiums. Phals can also be started from stem cuttings provided it has started a kiki (small plant with roots) first. Cattleyas usually need 2-3 stems with small buds or "eyes" that are alive. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on June 16, 2003) |
|
Question |
| Do epiphytes grow in canada? |
|
Unknown |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| No, epiphytic orchids do not grow in Canada, unless they are in someome's greenhouse. They need warmth, however there are some cooler growing ones that can take it down to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. |
|
David Schaffter |
| One of my Phals sprung a keiki last year. Quite big now and in bloom, I bent the stem over when the bulbs started and potted it. Now that it is in bloom, when should I sever the mother stem? Both are doing well, but the parent plant is not blooming. |
|
Jeff - Las Cruces, NM - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Jeff, it really wasn't necessary to leave the keiki on the plant when you potted it, but since you did, I wouldn't cut it until it finishes blooming. Enjoy the blooms as long as you can. You might want to take a look at our Orchid Culture section for more information. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. Good luck! |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| With summer so close and the prime growing season upon us, you probably can cut the stem any time. Just to be on the safe side, make sure your keiki has 3 or more good, healthy roots. The parent plant probably didn't bloom because it was putting most of its energy into the keiki. |
|
David Schaffter |
| How do I know if the plant isn't getting everything it needs from the soil? |
|
Marc Lennox |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Marc, it's difficult to answer your question with no information about your plant. Take a look at our Orchid Culture section and see if any of the information applies to your plant. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| If your plant is dehydrated, sickly, or just not doing well, then your plant most likely has root problems. Look at the roots and repot with fresh medium if necessary. |
|
David Schaffter |
| Several of my larger orchids in baskets have become home to a type of fern with wide leaves. Is there any way to eliminate them? |
|
Eleanor M. Sanfilippo - Miami, FL - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Eleanor, about the only way I know of is just yank those suckers out by the roots! When ferns produce spores (seeds) they are extremely fine & are carried everywhere by the wind & they will take root about anywhere. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| You can pull them out manually or else you can use a herbicide called Karmex at 1/10 teaspoon/gal. Be careful and only spray the fern leaves, as this might cause damage to your orchid. A safer bet would be to repot the orchid and remove the fern by hand. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
(Posted on April 27, 2003) |
|
Question |
| What do orchids need to grow? |
|
Agnes Francisco |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Agnes, orchids need pretty much the same as any plant: light, water, air, and nourishment. There are too many orchid species to generalize; however, if you would check our Orchid Culture section, you may find the answers you're looking for. Thanks for the question & for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
| I live in the southwest, I would like to know the best way to take care of orchids in my area. I am using humidity trays, but the winter months seem to dry the plants out rapidly. In the summer they dry out fast but I water them more often. I would appreciate any information you can give me about growing orchids in the southwest. |
|
Gladys Lewis - El Paso, TX - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Dear Gladys: Growing where it's dry requires more water as you know. The important thing is to try & keep them at an even humidity. If you can get a hold of an old "swamp cooler" that might help even out the humidity. See what other people in your area do when they raise orchids. In Florida, it's pretty humid most of the time, so we're not too familiar whit real dry dessicating weather. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Hi Gladys. I searched the AOS Affiliated Societies page and found an orchid society in your area. The Paso Del Norte Orchid Society meets on the 2nd Tuesday of every month and the contact information is as follows: Kenneth E. Raab, 11209 Dick Lotz Lane, El Paso, TX 79936. Phone: (915) 592-4617. Joining an orchid club is the best way to obtain excellent orchid culture information for the climate conditions in your area. That and the fact that you will meet other orchid enthusiasts are compelling arguments to give it a try. |
|
Fred Armando |
| Well, I certainly have way too many questions to ask here for sure!! I am totally new at growing orchids but have already acquired probably ten different varieties! That may have been a mistake but since I live in the subtropical climate and wish to make orchid growing a new and devoted hobby I want to actually try all of them. Is there a website that will provide me with information about feeding, cultivation and care for several DIFFERENT varieties? I took note of the potting medium that came with the orchids I received. Most seem to be in a bark mixture with a lot of moss on the top. I went to Home Depot and bought some new orchid potting mix being advised that the orchids should not be repotted until after 30 days. It should be spring by then here. At that time I wish to place all of the plants outdoors for proper filtered sun and plenty of air movement; bringing them in only in December through February. A friend of mine also grows orchids and this seems to work best for this climate; in fact he NEVER brings his inside even though the temperatures here can drop to 40 degrees! Is there a problem with using a SMALL amount of african violet potting soil added to the potting medium to help to retain nutrients and moisture? I am only talking about 1/4 soil to 3/4 bark with moss at the top. I bought the fertilizer which is a high quality liquid and will use it twice a month until I find out the proper amount. I have been watering all of the species well and allowing them to drain and dry out b | |
