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EEOS Original Articles |
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The many articles in our Orchid Culture section can solve most of your culture issues. Check them out before submitting a question. |
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AOS Culture Sheets |
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The AOS Culture Sheets are very thorough guides for growing orchids successfully. Read the one pertaining to your kind of orchid before asking a culture question. |
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Ask Your Own Question |
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If the articles and culture sheets in our Orchid Culture section did not solve your problem, feel free to submit your own orchid culture question. |
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(Posted on March 9, 2003) |
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Question |
| I live in Idaho, where the temperature, even in the summer, can swing 40+ degrees in one day. I would like to try growing an orchid - but considering the weather variances and where I would like to grow them (at work in an enviroment where it would not get any air flow, less the HVAC system), I am not sure if this is the flower for me. What orchid variety would you recommend for a first-time grower, who lacks a lot of time to baby a flower, has climate and lighting considerations? |
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Jody -
Idaho Falls, ID - USA |
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Answer |
| Jody, having not tried to grow orchids in your environment, I can only suggest you contact an orchid society in your area. Here are a few: Valley Orchid Society (Twin Falls, ID), North Idaho Orchid Hobbyists (Coeur d'Alene, ID), and Treasure Valley Orchid Society (Eagle, ID). |
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Bob Stipe |
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| You could try some of the cooler types of lady slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum). |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on March 9, 2003) |
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Question |
| Orchid leaves are light green with ripples in them not flat and dark green like they were, why? Please help. Thank you. |
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Geri -
Palm Beach Gardens, FL - USA |
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Answer |
| Geri, without knowing what type of orchid you have, it's difficult to give you a definitive answer. It sounds to me like your plant is getting more light than it was and may be dehydrated. Once you've identified it, please return to our Orchid Culture section and check the growing requirements for you particular orchid. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on March 9, 2003) |
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Question |
| I'm a resident of India sub tropical climate,having all three seasons in full swing. Means in winter temp may be as 4-10 degree C, summer 15 to 43 C. In rainy season humidity will be 90%. Please suggest me few varieties of orchids that can be grown inside or outside inserted in local varieties of trees. Regards. |
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Ambuj Nayan Srivastava - Ghazipur, Utter Pradesh - India |
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| Start by growing some local orchids, then try some that come from a different area, but require the same growing conditions that you have. I think Vandas and Dendrobiums might do well in your area. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi Ambuj. I did a quick search on the American Orchid Society's web site and found three orchid clubs in India. These would probably be the best source of information for growing orchids in your country. They are: AVT Vanitha Orchid Club (A.V. Thomas & Co. Ltd.-Bio Tech Div. - PO No. 1685, Panampilly Nagar - Cochin, Kerala 682036 - INDIA - Phone: 310156), India Orchid Growers Association (Keshab Chandra Pradhan - Sixth Mile, Tadong - Gangtok, Sikkim 737102 - INDIA - Phone: 91-3592-251704), and Orchid Club of Bombay (P.K. Nevatia - 78, Mount Unique - 62A Peddar Road - Bombay - 400 026 - INDIA - Phone: 578 23 11 - E-mail: harsh@bom2.vsnl.net.in). Good luck. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on February 20, 2003) |
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Question |
| OK. My class has to do a science fair project and I need to know if like pieces of foil and plastic wrap and other stuff like that in the roots will affect the plant's growth. If you can't help me that is ok. Well thanks for trying! |
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Rachel - Florida, USA |
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| Orchid roots like to breathe, so any airless, damp environment will most likely cause root rot. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on February 20, 2003) |
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Question |
| My wife has had a few orchids around the house and outside for a year or so. But now I've gotten it them and have increased the collection several fold. Since we live in Miami, I was wondering about some of the culture tips that I've read here and on the many orchid sites, and how they apply to my sub-tropical growing climate. Like rest periods, growth periods. Several of my orchids, are still putting out new roots and growth even though it's almost December now is that normal because it's warm here basically all year round? Also the shade quotient is another confusing thing. I have no idea what 35% or 50% shade really looks like. What shade percentage is typical patio screen? This may help a little. Right now I have 3 Vanda's 3 Cattley's 2 dendrobiums and 1 Encyclia phoenicia. |
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Travis C., Miami, FL - USA |
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| Travis, your best bet for South Florida orchid culture is our Orchid Culture section, since we are located in the South Dade area. Another good idea is to visit R.F.Orchids. They can answer any and all questions about growing orchids in the South Florida area. Please be sure and tell them you were referred by the East Everglades Orchid Society. I'd also like to take this opportunity to invite you to one of our meetings this year. For information on where and when our club meets, please visit the Meetings section. Thanks for your question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Patio screens are good for 35%-50% shade. You can grow your Cattleyas, Vandas, and dendrobiums there. Winter is a slow-down period for orchid growth, so we typically fertilize once a month in the winter. Protect your orchids from the cold and especially the dry, north winds we get. Late spring is when orchids really start putting on new growth, so make sure you water and fertilize more as the temp rises. also, you might want to check out our Orchid Culture section and read the Articles by the EEOS for good information on growing plants in South Florida. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| What makes an orchid not bloom? |
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Betty |
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Answer |
| There are several reasons an orchid won't bloom, starting with the most likely: not enough sunlight, poor root structure, unhealthy plant, not enough water, poor air circulation, poor fertilizing habits, insects, too much light, orchid too dry, worng time of year to bloom, etc.... First, try to identify your orchid (what type) and then follow the culture instructions for that type, which can be found in the Orchid Culture section of our web site. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on October 5, 2003) |
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Question |
| I am new to orchids and just bought a plant from target about a month ago. The label says Dendrobium (A-220) H1/31/D NINA (A-size) (Nurs REG #47228863). When I bough it in the end of August, it has six realtivley small lavender-pinkish flowers on it ( the tip of the flowers are kind of browned a bit already). I repotted two weeks ago since I feel the potting mix started decomposited. The root is not what I expected like my other orchid (phalaenopsis). The root is not the green root I've seen before, it was covered with brownish loose stuff (? ). I removed some of the brownish loose thing and repotted in orchid potting mix. Then today I see the lowest leaf on the plant is totally yellowed. Can anybody tell me what it is and what is the growing season for this one? And am I doing something wrong by repotting it? Thanks in advance. |
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Jenny |
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| You did the right thing in repotting your orchid. As usual, your plant will show some signs of stress when you repot. The best time to repot is in the late spring so the plants have all summer to establish new, healthy roots. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Jenny, department store type garden departments do not, as a rule, hire orchid experts. Either all the plants get watered, or none do. If you buy an orchid at these places, you should repot it as soon as possible. Please visit our Orchid Culture to get growing requirements for dendrobiums. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on October 5, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have an orchid that used to bloom purple and white. Now everytime it blooms, the flowers are green. Any ideas? |
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Stephanie - Pembroke Pines, FL - USA |
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| Stephanie, it sounds like you might have had a tag switched at one time. It's pretty easy to do, especially if you have a lot of plants. Thanks for the question & for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Sometimes a department store orchid will have 2 or 3 different orchids in one pot. This goes on with dendrobiums quite often. You might have bought the orchid in bloom with one color and now the other orchid (different hybrid) is blooming, giving you a green flower. Also, check the name of the orchid. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on October 1, 2003) |
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Question |
| Hi! I just found your site. I love it! I saw the word "aliflor." What is it? And, what is it used for? My daughter got me my first orchid for my 50th birthday a year ago. Now, I have 14 plants of my own: 1 Cattleya, 3 Dens, 1 Zygo, 1 Brassia, 6 Phals, and 2 Onc. If aliflor would help my plants or any new ones please let me know how. Thanks! |
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Trudy - Los Angeles, CA - USA |
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| Trudy, first let me welcome you to the one of the most exciting and rewarding hobbies in the world. Aliflor is expanded clay (ceramic) pellets. It has a neutral pH, is long-lasting and provides excellent aeration. It can be used alone or in any mix. Any orchid supply vendor should have it. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Aliflor is a round synthetic stone or ceramic material about 1 cm in diameter that we add to other organic mixes. We use it in cattleyas, encyclias, phals, or other potted orchids to varying ratios. It dosen't break down or allow any bacteria, fungus, or other critters to hide in it. It also helps aerate the mixture and keeps it from staying too wet and stagnant. Try looking it up on the Internet, or else try your local commercial orchid grower or agricultural media supplier. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on October 1, 2003) |
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Question |
| After your plant has bloomed, do you cut back on part of the old leaves? My plant is getting very thick with all the leaves and im not sure if you cut them back at all. |
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CJ - Renton, USA |
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| CJ, without knowing which species of orchid you have, it's difficult to give accurate information. I suggest you visit our Orchid Culture section after you've identified it and read the articles that pertain to yours. Thanks for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| We would need to know what type of orchid you are talking about to be able to give you better advice. Look in the pot for a name tag. If you do not have a tag, look in our Orchid Culture section for line drawings and photographs to aid you in the identification. After you know what kind of orchid you have, write again and we'll be glad to help you. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on September 30, 2003) |
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Question |
| I am a rank beginner. I purchased 2 orchids - the first a phalaenopsis and the second an oncidium. They are kept in the kitchen in a north window by the sink and put into an east window during the morning. Now my questions: 1) The phalaenopsis has a droopy leaf with wrinkles parallel to the leaf. I usually water about every 5 days with a hose and water the bark medium not the leaves if at all possible. This plant had a poor root structure and was replanted from the sphagnum moss. What am I doing that needs to be changed? It is planted in a ceramic orchid pot. This plant also has nicks on the side and top of its leaves that are light yellowish. Any guesses for cause and solution? 2) The oncidium was a total reject and in bad shape. I planted it in a bark medium in what looks like a wire basket. There is great air circulation and it is also beginning to have those light colored nicks in one leaf. I have got to learn what is going on. I would love to see new root growth on these plants. My only source for optimism is the beginning of 2 new leaves on the oncidium. Thanks for helping me. |
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Lillian Miller |
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| Lillian, you pretty much answered you own question for the phal. If the plant had poor roots before it was changed from sphagnum to a bark mixture, it probably needs more water. The moss retains more moisture than bark. I think you'd have better success with the moss. Don't just water on a regular basis. Feel the medium to actually determine if it needs to be watered. Phals need to be kept moist and not allowed to dry out completely. The same could be applied to your oncidium, at least until it gets well established. Please visit our Orchid Culture section and check for info about your plants. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| It's tough to try and resurrect orchids that are in poor shape to begin with. Now with the days getting shorter and winter approaching, this makes it even a greater challenge. Try moving the phal into fresh sphagnum moss. This will help the roots by maintaining a constant humidity. Try and keep the leaves dry so you don't get any bacterial rot, especially with damaged leaves. Older leaves on the oncidium will turn yellow and drop, especially if the plant has no roots. Try to establish new roots before winter. Give the plant as much sunlight (without burning) and watch your new growth. Water sparingly until you get new roots (once a week). Keep up the good air movement. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on September 29, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have 2 questions: 1) Why don't you have a printing option for your orchid culture articles. When I try to print, I usually get a blank page. 2) You speak alot of the importance of pebbles in water for humidity. As long as the pot does not sit in water, is there any reason why the tray underneath could not have just water without the pebbles? |
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Addie Weiss - Bethlehem, USA |
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| The pebbles keep the pot from sitting in the water and they also allow for a greater surface area to transpire moisture into the air around the plant. If you have trouble printing the culture sheets, try copying them to Adobe or Microsoft Word. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Lillian, you're correct about the pebbles. They do keep the pot from setting in the water, plus they help control the rate of evaporation. They also provide a more aesthetically pleasing display. Please check our Orchid Culture section for more detailed growing tips. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Lillian, we are in the process of adding a printing option to all our articles. You can try copying the text to a program like Microsoft Word, but you will lose formatting in the process. The easiest way to print the articles is as follows: If you are using Netscape, click on the Print button on the top bar of your browser. (This option will print all frames, one on each page.) If you are using Internet Explorer, right-click on the article and click on Print. (This option will print only the frame you right-click on, so make sure to right-click on the article itself.) If you are still having difficulties, or if you use a different browser, please contact me at webmaster@orchidseeos.com and I will be glad to help you. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| I see a lot of suggestions on saving rootless orchids but none on leafless orchids! Several of my orchids have been badly damaged by excessive sun. They are all recovering with the exception of two seedlings, a Neomoora and a Miltonidium. The leaves have all fallen off the Neomoora, and the Miltonidium is left with one sad/almost falling off leaf and an extremely withered pseudobulb. The roots aren't terrific but ok. How do I save them?! Also, if I am repotting, do I cut off dried roots too, or just the rotten ones? Thank you! |
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Kristina - San Francisco, CA - USA |
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| Kristina, It sounds as if your orchids are dehydrated as well as sun damaged. It might be too late, but when repotting, always cut off the rotten roots. Leave the dry ones if they have substance. Are there any green tips on the roots? Try repotting in a fir bark mixture containing charcoal in a slat basket or a pot that has very good drainage. The potting mixture I'm referring to is available at Home Depot, just about any garden center or orchid supply house. After about a week or two, start watering and watch the direct sun. Under a tree with filtered sun would be ideal. One thing to remember is if you use a bark mixture to repot, the plant probably needs to be repotted every other year due to decomposition of the mixture. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have two orchids, one white, one purple - they bloomed for quite a while and are now gone. How far down do I cut them and do they re-bloom? |
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Cheryl Stalowski - Oregon, WI - USA |
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| Cheryl, you can cut the stem right down to the plant since it won't flower from the same stem again. The orchid will put out a new stem in the spring (or whenever it blooms) and new flowers will appear on the new growth. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Cheryl, it sounds as if the orchids you have are phaelenopsis. If that's the case, many times they will bloom a second time from the same spike if it's still green. If the stem is brown and dry you can cut it off as low as you can without damaging the plant. You can find more information in our Orchid Culture section or by visiting some of the links we've provided. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on July 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a large white orchid. It has grown very well and the stem is getting very long. Can orchids be started from cuttings? |
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S. Byers - Brittish Columbia, Canada |
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| Some orchids can be started from cuttings, such as Dendrobiums. Phals can also be started from stem cuttings provided it has started a kiki (small plant with roots) first. Cattleyas usually need 2-3 stems with small buds or "eyes" that are alive. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on June 16, 2003) |
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Question |
| Do epiphytes grow in canada? |
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Unknown |
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| No, epiphytic orchids do not grow in Canada, unless they are in someome's greenhouse. They need warmth, however there are some cooler growing ones that can take it down to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. |
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David Schaffter |
| One of my Phals sprung a keiki last year. Quite big now and in bloom, I bent the stem over when the bulbs started and potted it. Now that it is in bloom, when should I sever the mother stem? Both are doing well, but the parent plant is not blooming. |
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Jeff - Las Cruces, NM - USA |
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| Jeff, it really wasn't necessary to leave the keiki on the plant when you potted it, but since you did, I wouldn't cut it until it finishes blooming. Enjoy the blooms as long as you can. You might want to take a look at our Orchid Culture section for more information. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. Good luck! |
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Bob Stipe |
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| With summer so close and the prime growing season upon us, you probably can cut the stem any time. Just to be on the safe side, make sure your keiki has 3 or more good, healthy roots. The parent plant probably didn't bloom because it was putting most of its energy into the keiki. |
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David Schaffter |
| How do I know if the plant isn't getting everything it needs from the soil? |
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Marc Lennox |
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| Marc, it's difficult to answer your question with no information about your plant. Take a look at our Orchid Culture section and see if any of the information applies to your plant. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| If your plant is dehydrated, sickly, or just not doing well, then your plant most likely has root problems. Look at the roots and repot with fresh medium if necessary. |
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David Schaffter |
| Several of my larger orchids in baskets have become home to a type of fern with wide leaves. Is there any way to eliminate them? |
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Eleanor M. Sanfilippo - Miami, FL - USA |
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| Eleanor, about the only way I know of is just yank those suckers out by the roots! When ferns produce spores (seeds) they are extremely fine & are carried everywhere by the wind & they will take root about anywhere. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| You can pull them out manually or else you can use a herbicide called Karmex at 1/10 teaspoon/gal. Be careful and only spray the fern leaves, as this might cause damage to your orchid. A safer bet would be to repot the orchid and remove the fern by hand. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on April 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| What do orchids need to grow? |
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Agnes Francisco |
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| Agnes, orchids need pretty much the same as any plant: light, water, air, and nourishment. There are too many orchid species to generalize; however, if you would check our Orchid Culture section, you may find the answers you're looking for. Thanks for the question & for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
| I live in the southwest, I would like to know the best way to take care of orchids in my area. I am using humidity trays, but the winter months seem to dry the plants out rapidly. In the summer they dry out fast but I water them more often. I would appreciate any information you can give me about growing orchids in the southwest. |
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Gladys Lewis - El Paso, TX - USA |
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| Dear Gladys: Growing where it's dry requires more water as you know. The important thing is to try & keep them at an even humidity. If you can get a hold of an old "swamp cooler" that might help even out the humidity. See what other people in your area do when they raise orchids. In Florida, it's pretty humid most of the time, so we're not too familiar whit real dry dessicating weather. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi Gladys. I searched the AOS Affiliated Societies page and found an orchid society in your area. The Paso Del Norte Orchid Society meets on the 2nd Tuesday of every month and the contact information is as follows: Kenneth E. Raab, 11209 Dick Lotz Lane, El Paso, TX 79936. Phone: (915) 592-4617. Joining an orchid club is the best way to obtain excellent orchid culture information for the climate conditions in your area. That and the fact that you will meet other orchid enthusiasts are compelling arguments to give it a try. |
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Fred Armando |
| Well, I certainly have way too many questions to ask here for sure!! I am totally new at growing orchids but have already acquired probably ten different varieties! That may have been a mistake but since I live in the subtropical climate and wish to make orchid growing a new and devoted hobby I want to actually try all of them. Is there a website that will provide me with information about feeding, cultivation and care for several DIFFERENT varieties? I took note of the potting medium that came with the orchids I received. Most seem to be in a bark mixture with a lot of moss on the top. I went to Home Depot and bought some new orchid potting mix being advised that the orchids should not be repotted until after 30 days. It should be spring by then here. At that time I wish to place all of the plants outdoors for proper filtered sun and plenty of air movement; bringing them in only in December through February. A friend of mine also grows orchids and this seems to work best for this climate; in fact he NEVER brings his inside even though the temperatures here can drop to 40 degrees! Is there a problem with using a SMALL amount of african violet potting soil added to the potting medium to help to retain nutrients and moisture? I am only talking about 1/4 soil to 3/4 bark with moss at the top. I bought the fertilizer which is a high quality liquid and will use it twice a month until I find out the proper amount. I have been watering all of the species well and allowing them to drain and dry out before rewatering, taking care to water only the soil and not the plant itself. Any first minute pointers you can provide will be so greatly appreciated. |
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Michael, Corpus Christi, TX - USA |
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Answer |
| Michael: It sounds like you are starting out right by your culture methods, but leave out the African Violet potting mix. The orchids don't need it. EEOS website has excellent culture tips. Also, hook up with a local orchid society. They are a wealth of information. Look and learn how the members are growing their orchids, since everybody grows orchids a little differently, depending on their local conditions. All orchids like a standard growing procedure, depending on their genus. Cattleyas like to be watered 2 times a week, with a dryout between waterings. Vandas & ascocendas can be watered every day, when it is warm & sunny (ones grown in baskets). Phalaenopsis need moisture around their roots at all times, but not too wet, and they need more shade than the others. This is just the basics. Find out more by what your neighbors are doing with their orchids. There are many books in the local library that can get you started on a successful and enjoyable path on growing orchids. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi Michael. Take a look at our Orchid Culture section. We have lots of articles, both from our local members and from the AOS (American Orchid Society). There you will find lots of information on growing orchids successfully. You can also visit the AOS web site and look in their library for great books on orchid culture. Go with something basic first and then try the more specialized books after you gain some experience. However, I agree with Dave: there's no substitute for the information that a local orchid club can provide. By looking in the Affiliated Orchid Societies page of the AOS web site (www.orchidweb.org), I was able to find an orchid club in your area. The South Texas Orchid Society meets on the 3rd Thursday of every month and you can contact them through: Nina Johnson 6025 Lost Creek, Corpus Christi, TX 78413. |
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Fred Armando |
| I'm so very sorry about the extremely long question, but I really need help. I love orchids, but have had little success with them (have bought 3 and all have died - were phals) and I think it was either due to lack of light -- did not have near a western window and overwatering - maybe too much fertilizer or a combination of all of them. I just brought a beautiful orchid into our home - was unsure of variety. I've checked photos and now know that it is a Brassia -- it had one long stem with beautiful yellow blossoms shaped like spiders and dotted with small dark spots-blossoms were about 2-2-1/2" -- when I got it there were 8 blossoms and 3 buds. The unopened flowers opened 1 a day after I received the flower -- it is very healthy looking, it has 3 pseudobulbs - 1 with the stem and 2 others. I was told to put it in a spot that got sun and to water it once a week -- water in the sink and let all of the excess drain. To let it dry completely before watering. It is in a clay pot and saucer with loose, bark type medium. It sits on my dining room table -about 5-6 feet from a west facing window with blinds. I have slanted the blinds (1/3 way open) so that it gets dappled, but fairly bright sun several hours or more per day. I have watered every Saturday. But after only 3 weeks, all of the flowers have dried up and fallen off - leaving just the stem. Since I've had little luck in the past (and always thought it was due to overwatering), I was reluctant to water more. And, some say it needs more sun. I live in the Southeast and we usually leave the air conditioning on 70-75 in the summer. Can you please tell me what happened and what to do from here? The plant still has beautiful greenery - the pseudobulbs are not shriveled. I want to make sure that it lives -- I just don't know what to do. Also -- someone told me to never fertilize and orchid when in bloom (?)and to trim the stem to right above the joint where the first flower appeared. But I'm reluctant to do anything until I find out what caused the blooms to dry up and fall off. I anxiously await your advice. I need to know when to water, when to fertilize, when to trim, how to sustain blooms (for when it hopefully blooms again), does it take a while for them to adjust to an environment - just anything and everything -- I can follow directions, but they need to be specific. I've tried trial and error 3 times with phals and obviously learned nothing. This orchid is just way too beautiful -- I love the spider-like blossoms and I want to keep it a long time. Thanks! |
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Sharon |
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| Dear Sharon: It sounds like your plant might be getting too little water. I usually water twice a week & fertilize once every 2 weeks in the summer. Another problem might be your air conditioning. AC lowers the humidity (making it very dry) and cool. If you live in the southeast, place your orchid outdoors on a patio to bloom it, then bring indoors. Remember, once it hits the cooler, dryer AC, the blooms will probably not last as long. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi Sharon. From what you described, I am inclined to say that there may not be anything wrong with your orchid at all, except maybe for where it's located. Let me explain: you said that the blooms shriveled and died after 3 weeks. That is not bad for a Brassia. The flowers on a plant serve the express purpose of reproduction. They stay open for some time and then dry out and fall off the spike. Phalaenopsis tend to keep their blooms for a long time while the blooms on some Cattleyas only last a few days. Your plant is indoors and so it is protected against the wind and rain. That may help keep the blooms on the spike a little longer. However, orchids (a Brassia in this case) generally do not do well in air-conditioned environments. But you need to look at the plant as a whole to see if it's doing well or poorly. Look at the leaves. Are they a medium shade of green? If they're too dark (as I suspect they might be, since the plant is indoors), then the plant is not getting enough light; if they're too light, the plant is probably getting too much light. Look at the pseudobulbs. You said that they are nice and plump. That probably means that the plant is doing well, but you should really look at the roots for a definitive answer. Is there new root growth? Do the roots look healthy (white with green tips) or are they brown? If the roots look bad, you might have to repot. Take a look at the culture sheets and articles in our Orchid Culture section for more details on potting media. When I used to keep my orchids inside (with the A/C on), I had to water them more often. The A/C will dry up the air, making the medium lose its moisture content quicker. What about light? Brassias belong to the Oncidium alliance and they like bright light. Even if you think it's pretty bright in your living room, for an orchid there's probably not enough light. Again, see the Oncidium culture sheets for more details. In short: if the plant looks good and just lost its flowers, don't panic. Anyway, I would suggest moving it to a screened patio or balcony or to a shaded part of your garden. Most orchids need high humidity, good air circulation, and good light, and these conditions are not usually found inside our homes. |
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Fred Armando |
| A friend addicted me to orchids this January and I've bought quite a few more and read a lot but I've a question I've been unable to find an answer to. One of my dendrobiums (banana royale per the Lowe's tag) had four separate plants with flowers when I got it. One of them appeared to be a separate plant on top of one of the old ones from which I concluded it was a kiki. I held the blooms for about 3 months after I got it but the stems died and I cut them off. New growth started at the base of 3 of the stems but the 4th that looked like it was out of the top of an old stem grew a new plant out of the top again. I'm assuming these are kikis though I've only heard of phals growing kikis. Since then its grown 4 more kikis on other 'older' stems. Should I leave the kiki's as with a phal or replant or does it matter for a dendrobium? Also, a friend said den's can kiki when they get too much water and inadequate light and blamed Lowe's. Is this ok or is there something I should change in the culture to get them to stop doing it? Right now it gets ~14 hours of 4 full spectrum 4' fluorescents and seems happy w/ water once a week as its in 100% bark. Also, the stem with the original 'older' kiki and the new one has a new growth out of the base. Should I remove that kiki so it doesn't take away water/nutrients from the new growth at the base or is it ok to leave it? |
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Eileen - College Station, TX - USA |
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| Dear Eileen: Dendrobiums will kiki anytime they are stressed, either from lack of water or too much. You can safely remove the kikis if they have adequate roots. Spring or summer is the best time to remove kikis since this is the prime growing season for orchids. Check your growing medium. Bark has a tendency to rob the orchid of nitrogen when it breaks down. You may need to use a fertilizer high in nitrogen. Also make sure your medium isn't too wet. Dendrobiums can be grown under cattleya-type conditions, that is, a drying out between waterings. If your problem persists, I would change my medium, one with less bark. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Just another comment: a good rule of thumb to separate keikis is when they have at least 3 roots. When deciduous dendrobiums (those that lose their leaves before flowering) grow keikis, some orchid growers go as far as potting the keikis up in small baskets before cutting them from the mother plant. This way, they can grow their roots while they get nutrition from the mother plant. Then, when they're nicely rooted, the grower cuts them from the old cane or spike. And to address your question on lighting: 4 full spectrum fluorescent bulbs might not be enough for your orchid. Most dendrobiums like a lot of light and you might want to think about moving it to a south window. A good way to tell if your dendrobium needs more light is to look at the leaves: a dark shade of green indicates poor lighting conditions, while a very light shade of green (almost yellow) indicates too much light. |
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Fred Armando |
| How does one get an orchid to spike? After a plant has bloomed (we have several --mostly phals), what must one do to encourage another spike to form? Should one remove the spike after all blooms have departed? |
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Ray |
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| Ray - Phals usually only bloom once a year. After the old spike turns brown, cut it off. It's done blooming. If the plant is strong, you might try to encourage the plant to bloom again by lowering the night temperatures to 60 degrees for a week. This is why they bloom in the first place. We (in S. Florida ) usually have to wait until late Oct. or Nov. before our temperatures go this low. |
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David Schaffter |
| I realize I live in a much different climate than you do. Some issues have puzzled and concerned me since I started growing orchids three years ago. Here's one that just occurred to me: I've been using clay pots for a lot of my plants, but I notice they get rather cold, especially in the winter even thought I keep my apartment fairly warm. Would it be better to stick to plastic pots since they don't fluctuate as much with the temperature conditions? I also noticed the metal grated shelves (I use discarded refrigerator shelves) that I set the pots on over trays of water also get quite cool in winter and this compounds the problem. What's your advice? Also, I read somewhere that sphagnum moss has certain inherent antifungal properties and is therefore ideal for growing orchids. I keep all my phals growing in this medium. What's your opinion? And what's this medium called aliflor that I saw mentioned in other people's questions? Is it available up north, such as at Home Depot? I've never seen or heard anyone mention it, and our local orchid society carries quite a few different products. Thanks for helping. |
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David - New York, NY - USA |
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| You are right about the different climate conditions, and that is exactly why your pots are much cooler. With the heat on, your air is dryer than the medium in the orchid pots, causing evaporation. This evaporation removes the heat from the pots, making them cooler. Plastic pots will reduce this evaporation, but your plants might stay wet longer and reduce the amount of "breathability" around the roots. In Florida where the humidity is higher, this evaporation is not a problem, in fact, some growers would welcome a little drier conditions for the cooler growing orchids. Remember, you can grow the intermediate and cooler tolerant orchids that we cannot. Our summers are too hot & humid for many orchids. Aliflor is a rock-like medium that mimics the clay pots. We like it because it doesn't break down, it drains fast & allows air movement throughout the mixture. We mix it with conventional orchid mixes and use it in cattleyas and others that have the same potting requirements. It's good for our high humidity and summer rainy season. This product can be found at one of our area's orchid suppliers, OFE International. If your plants are doing well in clay pots, then I wouldn't change them. Remember, in the winter, everything growing slows down, even in Florida. You might try switching to plastic pots for some of your warmer growing plants, but remember, they will stay wet longer and have less air movement around the roots. |
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David Schaffter |
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| David, Aliflor is also known as LECA (Light Expanded Clay Aggregate). Basically, it's expanded clay and can be found at orchid supply stores. If you can't find it in your area, try hitting the Web for vendors that do mail order. By the way, I have also heard about the antifungal properties of sphagnum moss, but I think that the best way to keep rot from your orchids is by keeping the moisture of the medium and the air movement in check. Good luck on your search. |
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Fred Armando |
| I began my orchid collection in Dec. of 2001 at the Orchidfest. I came home with a total of 5 den. seedlings, and 1 bare root max. ten.. I am now seeing new healthy gorgeous roots popping out on 2 of the seedlings, the 3rd however, doesn't seem to be doing well. The 2 leaves it does have are droopy, and the one root that shows is almost black as if it's dead or dying. I am very new to orchid growing and am already stricken with orchid fever. I have a total of 16 at this point to include, 1 catt., 5 den., 1 maxillaria ten., 1 nuns cap, 1 spathoglottis, grapette, 1 epi. stam., 2 ascocendas, and 3 phals. and 1 brassavola. One of my den. has dropped both of its 2 leaves after turning yellow, 1 had dark spots before it dropped. They both have a white papery looking enclosure on the stalks, is this to be left on, or removed? At the time of purchase the larger one had flowers which wilted and dropped shortly after arriving home from orchidfest. They also do not have roots like my other orchids, they seem more like regular plant roots, what type of den. might they be with this type root, and are they ok in orchid mix? So far all of my other orchids are doing well. I have purchased several orchid books, and have downloaded tons of online info, as I learn to care for the diffrent types. Every visit to Home Depot draws me to the orchid section where I leave having purchased at least 1 or more. I will be attending the auction at the society I've joined, the Redlands open house, the Flamingo Gardens show, and would like your advice on possible additions as I know I will find them irresistible. I'd love to have the lady's slipper type, would you suggest this for a beginner's collection? All of my orchids are indoors at an east window where they receive morning sun and all day light and air. I also have artificial light from a pole lamp and a ciculatiing fan. I can use all the advice you may have to offer before I drown in the beauty of my new found love! Especially re: feeding, watering, and spraying and when and why this is done. Thanks. |
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Al - Miami, FL - USA |
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| Al: Whenever I purchase an orchid from an orchid show or a store, I always repot them when I get home or as soon as the weather gets warmer (springtime). Remember when you bought the orchid, it was probably in bloom and sometimes the grower or seller will put the plant in a moist mix to keep the bloom on the orchid as long as possible. This might not be the best mix to grow the plant in. Dendrobiums like to dry out between waterings, just like cattleyas. The papery sheath you see on the canes is OK, but it can also be removed if you like. Lady slipper orchids (Paphiopedilums) are a good choice, even for beginners. They take a little different care than cattleyas, though. Paphs like to be extremely confined in their pots (don't put them in a big pot), and they don't like to dry out. One of the best ways to learn about the culture and care of orchids is to hook up with an orchid society and rub elbows with some of the other members and learn from them. |
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David Schaffter |
| Fair warning! Lost of questions follow.
I have a number of orchids, mainly cattleyas, vandas, oncidiums, and dendrobiums, growing on a screened patio. Things have been going fairly well, but I think it's time for a more structured culture program, and that's what I need help with.
I used to feed (half-strength) weekly and spot apply safers (insecticidal soap and fungicide) as needed. I didn't think that was sufficient anymore, so I switched to feeding bi-weekly, alternating with applications of fungicides and/or insecticieds.
I would like to prepare a schedule or time table for feeding and the application of pesticides and fungicides that will provide optimal benefits. Here are the tools that I have now: Physan/RD-20, Dawn (soap), Thiomyl, Orthene, Peters, Superthrive, Silicon, and Aspirin. I use a 2 gallon pump sprayer to apply them. Which of these can be safely combined? What are the preferred intervals for application? Could too-frequent applications of fungicides and/or insecticides harm the plants? Should seasonal changes be made to the program? If so, how?
I try to use Orthene monthly, followed by an application of soap at the next application. I mix Peters, Superthrive, Silicon, and Aspirin for feeding days. I've been using RD-20 pretty frequently, sometimes with feedings, sometimes with *icides. Is this ok? Any other suggestions?
Please help. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated, as would suggested reference materials and/or resources.
My plants thank you, as do I! |
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Al - Miami, FL - USA |
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| It sounds like you use a lot of different chemicals and are creating extra work for you and your orchids. Each grower will have different ways of growing their orchids. I use the simplest and the least expensive way to get my plants to grow healthy and bloom frequently.
First of all, I don't like to use a lot of chemicals. I use wettable powder orthene for insects. It's systemic and it covers just about every bug I might encounter. Sometimes I use kelthane for red spider mites when found on the undersides of phalaenopsis leaves. I only use insecticide in the spring as a preventative and when they show up. I may use insecticides 3-4 times a year, at the most. I'll use dithane (a systemic) for fungicide in the late summer, or when the rainy season begins. You can mix dithane with kocide (a copper-based fungicide), but don't spray the dendrobiums & bromeliads with this mixture. They don't like the copper & might defoliate. Again, I may spray only 2-3 times a year, only when conditions warrant.
I fertilize (drench) with a 20-20-20 concentration about 2 times a week and change to a bloom booster in early fall, cutting back to once a month during the winter. You can use bloom booster 2 or 3 times in succession in between 5-6 applications of 20-20-20.
This seems to work pretty good for me. You could ask 50 different growers their schedules & chemicals & they would give you 50 different answers. It seems if you are comfortable with what you are doing & it works good, your plants are healthy and blooms are frequent, then you already have a good program. |
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David Schaffter |
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