|
|
EEOS Original Articles |
|
|
The many articles in our Orchid Culture section can solve most of your culture issues. Check them out before submitting a question. |
|
|
|
|
AOS Culture Sheets |
|
|
The AOS Culture Sheets are very thorough guides for growing orchids successfully. Read the one pertaining to your kind of orchid before asking a culture question. |
|
|
|
|
Ask Your Own Question |
|
|
If the articles and culture sheets in our Orchid Culture section did not solve your problem, feel free to submit your own orchid culture question. |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
(Posted on July 31, 2003) |
|
Question |
| I have an onicidium that's leaves are turning yellow. That means the good new leaves. I have lost the center leaves to the bulb and now the bulbs top half is drying up, the side leaves are yellowing and I have lost one of the keikis, it is yellowing. This plant had three other keikis who have no roots they have gotten taller and growth is evident since putting this sick plant in the bag. The mother plant has failed a lot since putting it in the bag it has steadily declined. The keikis except the one seems ok. They right now exist through the mother plant who is definetely dying. The mother plant has very little good root I have seen maybe three or four brown small good roots no green tips top them only firmness. I bought it and it was in rough condition when I bought it. I right now have it in a bag that has a good amount of humidity. Is there a chance of saving these keikis and do you know what else I can do. No rot seems to be present only a drying of the bulb and yellowing of the leaves. |
|
Sandra - USA |
 |
|
|
|
Answer |
| Dear Sandra. I would remove the plant from the bag so it gets better air movement. Your orchid might be getting the rots. Oncidiums with bulbs can go for a while without water, so let the orchid dry out a little, (unless you live in desert regions) and put in medium light maybe drench the orchid once a week until it puts out new roots. Better hurry, though, because summer will be over before you know it and the plant should have as many good roots as it can grow before cooler temps arrive. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Sandra, it sounds as if your oncidium is dehydrated. I would remove all the good keikis and pot in a bark based mixture with good drainage such as an orchid pot (with drainage holes in the sides) or a slat basket. Since we don't know your exact growing conditions, I can only tell you what I would do in our environment (in South Florida). My oncidiums get a lot of bright light (without burning the leaves) and a LOT OF WATER. Be sure they have good air movement. I fertilize about every 2 weeks with 20-20-20 fertilizer. You might take a look at the culture section on our website for oncidium culture, or do an Internet search for culture requirements in climates similar to yours. Good luck andthanks for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
| Hi, I just got a Brassia orchid, I live in CA. Could you please tell me how to take care of Brassias? How to feed them? When to take them outside and when to take them inside? Thanks a lot. |
|
Morris - Los Angeles, CA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Morris, Brassias are directly related to oncidiums and require the same care. When to bring in or take out depends on your climate and growing conditions. Please visit our Orchid Culture section for more information. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
| I have an oncidium orchid that now has a spike. Can I move it from its location under the tree to an area where I will be able to enjoy it better (like my terrace). Or should I wait until the flowers open and then move it? |
|
Alexander Bello - Miami, FL - USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Alexander, if you move your Oncidium now, the flower spike will seek out the brightest light source it can find & follow it. You would probably be better off letting it open almost all the way before moving it inside.. Thanks for the question & for visiting the EEOS web site. |
|
Bob Stipe |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| You can move it, just make sure it is receiving the same amount of light in order for the blooms to open fully. Try not to change the enviroment too much, like make sure it doesn't dry out or get too hot at your new location. |
|
David Schaffter |
| What is the best up to date monograph on Oncidiums. I'm interested in all aspects of Oncidium, but especially in the culture of this genus. |
|
Henry - McLean, USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| One thing you could do is spend some time at a local library or at a university library and do a search on the subject. You could also try the Internet. Just by typing Oncidiums I found this page that seems to be comprehensive, with details of a number of species and photos included, and it also has a list of 46 references specifically on oncidiums. |
|
Wagner Vendrame |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| As for Oncidiums, if they're not twig epiphytes like the equitants [i.e., Tolumnia], which need more light and less water, and they are not one of the few designated as "cool growing" i.e. with a habitat above 4000' [many of the allied genera, such as the Odontoglossums are definitely cool growing], they can be grown under Cattleya conditions of water and light, with maybe a little wetter mix. They are actually more tollerant of growing conditions than Cattleyas. Since culture is so simple, it is not gone into in detail in any of the general sources. But a Monograph that is great for its pictures and comprehensiveness is: The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Oncidium - H. Zelenko, B. D. Zelenko & J. Warshaw, ed. M Chase. I have the 1997 edition; I believe a revised one is now available. |
|
Dr. Bert Pressman |
| I have been using some Early Spider Orchids for arranging, but they don't seem to be lasting particularly long, I am not sure if I am conditioning them properly. Could you inform me of the correct way to condition them? |
|
Joanne Temple |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| Early spider orchids sounds like you mean they bloom maybe closer to summer than fall. It might be too warm for them to last long. The Brassia blooms only last 2-3 weeks under the best of conditions, and possibly less when it's warmer. If you use a balanced fertilizer mixture with micronutrients, you should have a strong and healthy plant producing good blooms. |
|
David Schaffter |
| Hi. My oncidium Gower Ramsey has gotten too big for its pot, but I don't know how to repot it. It grew kinda funny, throwing out some aerial pseudobulbs. Do I divide the plant, or try to repot the whole thing as it is? Some of the aerial bulbs are beginning to shrivel just a tad. I'm afraid that they're not getting enough water since they're not in the medium. Please help me. Thanks so much. |
|
Robert - Miami, FL- USA |
|
|
|
|
Answer |
| I had trouble growing large Onc. Gower Ramseys in pots, so I put them in a basket and just let them get big. You might try dividing the plant, putting one division in a basket and one in a pot. Once they become established in a basket, they seem to be self perpetuating and just grow bigger and bigger until they become a specimen. If you keep it on a pot, try a mixture that will hold a little more moisture. You might not have to water as often. The roots of these oncidiums are small and can dry out rather quickly if exposed to dry winds or conditions. |
|
David Schaffter |
|
