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EEOS Original Articles |
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The many articles in our Orchid Culture section can solve most of your culture issues. Check them out before submitting a question. |
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AOS Culture Sheets |
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The AOS Culture Sheets are very thorough guides for growing orchids successfully. Read the one pertaining to your kind of orchid before asking a culture question. |
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Ask Your Own Question |
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If the articles and culture sheets in our Orchid Culture section did not solve your problem, feel free to submit your own orchid culture question. |
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(Posted on March 9, 2004) |
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Question |
| Hi, I bought a Phal a couple of weeks ago in Barcelona, a city with the perfect climate for this beautiful flower, and translated it by car to Salamanca, middle-of spain cold city, where I have it in my hot and dry apartment. Yes, dreadful. 4 of its 5 initial flowers have dried and dropped (and so did the small buds - there where about 4 of them), one of its four leaves has also dried and another is cut in two. Fortunately the last flower is doing great, but I don't know if I'll be fortunate enough to see the plant flower again... I've been informed about the common treat of a phal, but could you give me some more helpful tips due to all it has been through? Do you think it will flower again? Thanks very much. |
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Dora - Salamanca, Spain |
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| Sometimes when you move an orchid from a humid to a dry climate, you will get bud drop due to stress. If you repot the plant this spring and it adapts to the change in climate, then it might reflower. Try to keep a constant humidity between 60-80%. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Dora, phals, as well as most other plants may be stressed if moved from one environment to another, especially if the change is severe. Your phal probably will bloom again the next blooming season if it has all the conditions it needs. Please check our Orchid Culture section for more info. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on March 9, 2004) |
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Question |
| Hi... I have one phal. orchid that has dried out and turned brownish black at the top. There is one leaf attached that is yellowish green. The other two below it are fine. It has been like this for over 6 months now with no change. The roots look healthy, and I know it's in the right growing conditions because all of my other ones have a spike and are doing well. It doesn't look like it's dying or growing. Is there hope or anything I can do? |
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Tarryn - San Jose, CA - USA |
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Answer |
| You can hold on to the plant until the summer and it might put out a keiki or start new growth from the crown. If you get nothing this summer, then chances are the plant is dead. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Tarryn, it sounds as if your phal has crown rot. Be sure when you water, you don't wet the plant itself, only water the medium so that the roots get the moisture. If any water collects in the leaf axils, dump it out and make sure you have adequate air circulation. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on March 9, 2004) |
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Question |
| I bought my first orchid, a blooming Phaelenopsis, last spring. After the stalk died off I repotted it in bark in a ceramic orchid pot. It lived on my desk under a full-spectrum desk lamp (we get almost no natural light in this house at this time of year) and I fed and watered it religiously and regularly. It put out one very large new leaf shortly after it finished blooming, and to my delight, it started a new stalk this winter, along with a few beautiful thick roots. I was so excited... and then, when it was only about 3" tall, my toddler climbed up onto the desk and broke the stalk off. I discovered this on Christmas day and it's the closest my daughter has ever come to death. <g> I've since moved the orchid (and lamp) to a much higher and child-safe area, but I'm so disappointed that the stalk was broken off. Will it begin to put up a new one any time soon or will it be months again? (To console myself, I just bought another phaelenopsis with one stalk in bloom and another on the way). One more question - small black gnats have taken up residence in the medium. Every couple of days I stir them up and kill as many as I can. How can I go about getting rid of them permanently? Thanks! |
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Meghan Rodberg - Seattle, WA - USA |
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| Meghan, depending on where the spike on you phal was broken, it may still bloom. Don't worry, if your plant is healthy, it'll bloom again. Make sure the ceramic pot you're using has adequate drainage. I suspect the potting medium is staying too wet, providing rotting environment for the insects to thrive in. Phals should be repotted each year. Any insecticide suitable for orchids should take care of your gnats. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Just to complement Bob's answer, the best time to repot your phals is in the spring. Choose a pot with good drainage (side slits are great) and a medium that will keep the roots moist but won't hold too much moisture. The best thing to do is find out what people use in your area. Try to visit a local orchid nursery or contact an orchid club around where you live. In Seattle, the Northwest Orchid Society is a good place to start. |
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Fred Armando |
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Answer |
| Phalaenopsis down in Florida like to see several nights of 60-65 degree temps before they start to spike up. We get blooming phals around the end of February and the beginning of March. If your orchid was just starting to spike up and not too developed, it may re-spike and bloom in spring. Give it a try. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on February 14, 2004) |
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Question |
| Hi. Three years ago I was given a beautiful Phalaenopsis, which continued flowering non-stop until about a month and a half ago. Since then, I've repotted it, and the two stems (?spikes?) have produced/are producing 5 keikis between them. The largest already has 2 (longish) aerial roots, the others have none. Being totally unfamiliar with orchids, I've been trawling the internet to find out more information. I now know what the technical term is for these babies... BUT half the sites I've seen talk about "sterile conditions" and all sorts of specialist equipment etc etc for cutting these keikis off and replanting them. I have neither the conditions nor the equipment. What on earth do I do now? HOW do I separate the mother plant from the large keiki without damaging either?? If you can tell me the answer, please email me . THANK you!!! (Apologies for the note of desperation, but I really *don't* know what to do!) |
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Anna Lindsay - Cambridge, England |
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| Anna, you haven't trawled in the right places. The only specialized equipment you need is a sharp knife, scissors or clippers that have been sterilized. You can use a weak bleach solution, T.S.P. (tri-sodium phosphate) or a good fungicide. For good orchid information, please check out our Orchid Culture section. There you can find all the information you need to maintain your orchids successfully. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Leave the keikis on the stem until spring time and then repot in sphagnum moss or like you repot your phals. If you need to cut them from the parent plant, then plant keikis in sphagnum moss and keep them warm and don't let them dry out too much. Make sure your keikis have a good set of roots before seperating them from the stem. (Usually 2-3 will suffice.) |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi Anna. I know how exciting it can be to see keikis on your phals. I always feel like: "Look! I made a new plant!" But you can relax: all you need is a pair of sharp scissors, something to sterilize them with (alcohol, bleach, etc.) and some potting material. As David said, the best time to do this is in the spring. To separate your keiki from the mother plant (the rule of thumb here is 3 roots per keiki), cut the spike without touching the baby plant. It's better to have a little bit of spike left, then to damage the keiki. Plant it as you do your other phalaenopsis and watch it grow! After you've removed all keikis from the spike, cut it off from the mother plant; it has been putting a lot of energy into supporting these keikis and it now needs a break in order to grow strong for the next flowering season. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on February 14, 2004) |
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Question |
| I see in a lot of comments (including this site) that phals don't bloom from the same stem again - but mine did! After the blooms were done the first time, the stem stayed green and completely dormant for about 4 months - then about 4 new stems grew off of the old one, and each produced several blooms! Less a question than a comment, you should just make sure people know NOT to cut off a stem unless it withers on its own - with proper care they often rebloom from the same stem, up to two years later. Cut them off completely when they yellow and wither on their own, which they'll do quickly when they're done with a particular spike. |
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Jim - New York, NY - USA |
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| Jim, I don't know where you got your information about the second blooming of phals, but anyone that grows them knows that they will quite often bloom a second time, however this can stress the plant if it's struggling. Thanks for the comment and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Jim, it is a known fact that most phals do indeed bloom again from the same spike. They can even shoot out new growth (keikis) from spikes that have finished blooming. It all boils down to an issue of energy. Basically, all plants do is growing and reproducing. When the orchid is blooming, less energy goes into growing, and vice-versa. If you plan on keeping your phals for a long time and having them bloom bigger and better each year, then I recommend that you cut the flowering spike after it finished blooming the first time. This will allow the plant to start putting its energy into growing right away, becoming bigger and stronger for the next flowering season. That doesn't mean, however, that it is wrong to leave the spike on. Many people do and get additional blooms that way. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on February 14, 2004) |
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Question |
| What soil, and how to re-pot Phal. Grace Palm? Thank you. |
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Jyne - San Francisco, CA - USA |
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| Jyne, please visit our Orchid Culture section for repotting information on phals. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Hi, Jyne. Phals like to be on a moist substrate. They should not dry out completely between waterings. So you should use pots and a potting medium that help to hold moisture. That being said, it will depend on your growing conditions. Here in South Florida I've seen people grow phals in wooden baskets and sphagnum moss, plastic pots and bark, and even mounted on trees. Watering schedules vary accordingly. I myself grow phals in clay pots and sphagnum moss (with a layer of styrofoam peanuts on the bottom). I water my plants once or twice a week, depending on humidity and wind conditions. The best thing for you to do would be to talk to local growers to find a good way to grow phals under your conditions. It also might be a good idea to join an orchid club in your area. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on February 10, 2004) |
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Question |
| We have had a very wet Summer and my Phalaenopsis (which I grow outside) have developed crown rot. Is there anything that will save them once they have lost all of their leaves. The roots are still alive and heathy and I have sprayed with a fungicide. |
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Julie - La Manzanilla Del Mar, Jalisco - Mexico |
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| Just hope the plant lasts until spring until you get some warmer weather and the plant just might put out new leaves. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Julie, your phals probably roted due to accumulated water in the crown area. To avoid this, you should think about bringing them to a covered area during the wet season. Some people grow their phalaenopsis in wooden baskets (with sphagnum moss) and then hang those baskets sideways, so that the water can run out of the leaf axils. I've seen it done successfully here in South Florida, where a rainy, hot summer can cause a lot problems for phals. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on
February 5, 2004) |
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Question |
| I have a Phalenopsis orchid which I purchased from a seller on E-Bay about a year ago. I was very excited when it finally grew a flower spike a couple of months ago. The first flowers started to open up about two weeks ago, but they haven't opened all the way. The phal is a hybrid called Windsong's Sonnet 'Cameo.' The grower has a patent pending on the plant, so I'm assuming it's a new cross. With the flowers failing to open up all the way, is it possible I got a dud hybrid? Do you have any reccomendations? Thanks for your input! |
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Gina Romero - Milwaukee, WI - USA |
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| Gina, any sudden change in the environment (temperature, etc.) during the blooming process can cause the flowers to delay or not open at all. I doubt if it's a flaw in the plant itself. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| You could have a bad hybrid or your growing conditions might not be the best. Check the roots of the plant and see if they are healthy. When Phals open their blooms, make sure they stay warm with no exposure to cold drafts. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a Phal that is doing amazingly well. It has a large root hanging outside the pot that is now starting to get 'buds' on it. Should I do something with that root or leave it alone??? |
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Debra Deutsch, Princeton, NJ - USA |
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| Leave it alone until springtime and then you can seperate it from the parent plant when you repot, then repot it as a baby phal. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a Phalaenopsis orchid that I got about 2 months ago. All blooms opend and then started turning brown and falling down. The leaves are turning yellow. I've read couple articles it said to cut of the dead roots. After cutting the roots I placed the plant into plastic bag with a little moisture and air inside. How long do I keep it there? Will it help developing new roots, or should I do something else? |
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Ole - Ontario, Canada |
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| Remove the plant from the plastic bag, or it will probably rot real quick. Remove dead roots & plant in fresh sphagnum moss and dont let potting mixture dry out. Keep the orchid from getting wet, especially in the crown. Roots might be hard to come by this time of year, but keep the plant as warm as possible. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Ole, the first thing I would do is to remove your plant from the bag! It needs air to survive. If you still have viable roots, please check our Orchid Culture section for instructions on repotting your phal. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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| I purchased a Phaleanopsis about 6 months ago, it was the largest Phal I've ever seen, the bottom foliage leaves are about 1ft in length, the spikes are about the size of a very large pencil, about 2 ft tall, about 15-20 blooms (size of a baseball)....then suddenly, the bottom leaf had a "soggy" "mushy" area, about the size of a quarter, the next day, the entire leaf was mush, so I cut it off....several day's later the next leaf up is doing the same thing....The plant's root system is very healthy, what I can see of it anyway, it's in a plastic pot, sitting inside a clay pot...it would fall over from the weight of the plant if not for the clay pot. It is definetly root bound, and time for repotting, but I didn't want to interfere with the blooms. Have I over watered?, is it a fungus? rot? Thanks for your help! |
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Cindy - Spurger, USA |
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| You might hold back on the watering a bit, but more important, is make sure you have good air movement around your plant. Place it under a ceiling fan or put a small fan in its vicinity. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a phaleanopsis that was blooming beautifully when I got it (2-3 yrs. ago) but has not bloomed since. We've moved several times, so it's had a lot of changes and lost some leaves along the way. 1) what can I do to encourage blooming? 2) how often should it get fertilized and with what formula? I was first advised to feed it once a month (I always water once a week), which I did for the first years, with a 30-10-10. Recently, I was told to feed it once a week, which I've been doing for the last month, with a 20-10-20. It currently has 5 leaves and one visible root coming off the side. No sign of flower. I have it in an east-facing bathroom with very bright light (no direct sun on the plant) and our summer has been very wet and humid with some hot periods. We live just off the ocean so the air is almost always moist. 3) I had another phaleanopsis (the really gorgeous one) which I had transplanted by a Chinese fellow who owned a shop with lots of orchids. I bought a beautiful ceramic pot with a hole in the bottom and he planted it with a bark mix. About 3 mos. later the plant turned yellow and fell over dead. When I removed it from it's pot it was totally damp - I was, at that point watering once a week - 10 days and fertilizing once a month. I'm assuming there was not enough drainage in the ceramic pot since everything had been fine before when it was in it's green plastic pot. Now I'm afraid to repot my last remaining ph. which is still in it's green plastic. Can you enlighten me???? I adore ph's & would love to grow them. I'm not starting out too well. Thanks very much. |
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Linda Patton - Marblehead, MA - USA |
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| Ceramic pots don't offer good drainage & drying capabilities like clay pots. The plastic pots have several holes in them for this purpose. In the summer when orchids are actively growing, we fertilize every 2 weeks & once a month in the winter months when it's cooler. Make sure your plants are flushed with plenty of water between fertilizing to flush out any salts. A buildup of fertilizer salts can damage roots. Make sure you have good air circulation & fresh potting medium for your orchids. When repotting phals, cut off all dead and rotten roots, as your plant will make new ones. Don't keep your phals too wet or else you will get the rots. Let the medium almost dry out before watering again. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on October 1, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have two (yes, only two) Phals, both of which were given to me as gifts, and were in full bloom. I've had them for about three months, and they both flowered beautifully. One is still in bloom (five very full blossoms that look very healthy) but the top leaf has developed yellow splotches that are slightly raised and wet-looking when they first appear. Any suggestions on whether this is a watering/light problem or something I need fungicide for (I really hope I don't have to destroy my plant...). Many thanks. |
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Sarah |
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| Sounds like you have a bacterial spotting caused by standing water on the leaves. Make sure your plants have good air movement and hold back on the watering a bit. Putting your plants by a fan will do them no harm. Let the medium dry just to the point of being moist. Check out our Orchid Culture section for suggestions on dilution rates for common fungicides and insecticides. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on September 29, 2003) |
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| I have only had orchids for one year and I recently repotted one of my Phalaenopsis due to media decay and now all of the blooms have fallen off and the spikes are turning yellow. What happened and what should I do? Should I just cut the spikes down all the way? How do you know when and where to cut the spikes if the plant still has blooms on it? One of my orchids still has blooms on it, but I thought they should have been gone by now so the spikes could be cut down to ready the plant for the next bloom. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! |
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Rebecca Topa - Scranton, USA |
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| Rebecca, when your phal is in bloom is not the time to repot unless it's an emergency. You will more than likely lose the blooms you have. Once the old spikes turn yellow or brown, cut them off. They're done until next year. It's a good idea to repot phals at least every two years. That way you can be sure the medium isn't rotted and you can check the roots for damage. You might want to check our Orchid Culture section for more detailed growing information. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| After the Phal is done blooming, you can cut the spikes off. New blooms come from new spikes, usually in the spring. It is more important to cut off the old spikes and repot you plant so it will be able to put new growth next season. |
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David Schafter |
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(Posted on September 29, 2003) |
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Question |
| Do the hybrid Phalalaenopsis bloom all the time or is there a down time. My Mom was given one and it has been blooming for a few months and just got some new buds but she was wondering if they go to sleep in the winter or you give them special care or what. Thay have only been in the house as we have 4 seasons here. Thanks for any help. |
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Addie Weiss - Bethlehem, USA |
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| All plants including orchids like a rest between blooms. Phals usually bloom in the winter to springtime in S. Florida (we don't get too much of a winter here, just a cool down). Phal budding is initiated by cooler weather, like a week of 60-degree nights. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Addie, phals need a distinctive temperature differential in order to bloom, usually in the spring. Please check our Orchid Culture section for more detailed growing information. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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| Hello, I have a phanaleopsis that is now two years old. I had it with flowers, cut the stem just above the second or third line (if I remember well...). The stem dried out and died. The leaves are a nice green (not too dark), she has made 3 new big leaves in those two years, I have changed the potting, but still no flower. I also mist most of my plants, so I mist this one too. What can I do to get a stem with flowers ? I've looked everywhere for answers, never got any, it's healty but just gives leaves... Thank you! |
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Elyse - Montreal, Canada |
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| It sounds like the plant is healthy and your cultivation is correct, however it might not be the right time for the phal to bloom. In South Florida, our blooming time for Phals is in the spring. Phals need several days (and nights) of 60 deg. F of weather to entice the orchid to bloom. You might be able to try this in Canada earlier than we can do it down here. We don't see those temps until about November. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Elyse, you didn't mention anything about fertilizer or your growing temperature. Please check our Orchid Culture section to read the AOS culture sheets for phals for growing requirements. Your plant needs a temperature differential of 15 to 20 degrees to bloom. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a phaleanopsis that was blooming beautifully when I got it (2-3 yrs. ago) but has not bloomed since. We've moved several times, so it's had a lot of changes and lost some leaves along the way. 1) What can I do to encourage blooming? 2) How often should it get fertilized and with what formula? I was first advised to feed it once a month (I always water once a week), which I did for the first years, with a 30-10-10. Recently, I was told to feed it once a week, which I've been doing for the last month, with a 20-10-20. It currently has 5 leaves and one visible root coming off the side. No sign of flower. I have it in an east-facing bathroom with very bright light (no direct sun on the plant) and our summer has been very wet & humid with some hot periods. We live just off the ocean so the air is almost always moist. 3) I had another phaleanopsis (the really gorgeous one) which I had transplanted by a Chinese fellow who owned a shop with lots of orchids. I bought a beautiful ceramic pot with a hole in the bottom and he planted it with a bark mix. About 3 mos. later the plant turned yellow and fell over dead. When I removed it from it's pot it was totally damp - I was, at that point watering once a week - 10 days and fertilizing once a month. I'm assuming there was not enough drainage in the ceramic pot since everything had been fine before when it was in it's green plastic pot. Now I'm afraid to repot my last remaining ph. which is still in it's green plastic. Can you enlighten me???? I adore ph's & would love to grow them. I'm not starting out too well. Thanks very much. |
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Linda Patton - Marblehead, MA - USA |
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| Linda, first, let's address the latter question. Just because someone sells orchids, does not mean they are experts, by any means. Buy an orchid from an orchid nursery. Any reputable nursery will teach you how to repot your plant if you ask. The best way to determine when your plant needs to be watered is to stick your finger down into the medium. If it's damp, don't water. Please check our Orchid Culture section for detailed phalaenopsis care. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| My Phal has tiny white spots on its leaves, forms in clusters. I was told this is normal for Phals. My orchid looks healthy... except for this. Is this true? |
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Jean Lutz - Miami, FL - USA |
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| If those white spots are raised lumps and can be removed from the leaves with your fingers, then I would say they might be mealybugs. It's hard to tell without looking at them. If they are mealybugs, they can be dealt with by spraying with an insecticide or with a mixture of water and liquid detergent (2-3 drops/gal water). |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi, Jean. I don't think white spots on your phals is normal. It sounds like scale that can be taken care of by using an old toothbrush with alcohol and applying Orthene to the leaves. Most of us use Ortho fire ant killer mixed with 2 tblsp per gallon of water. Used on a regular basis, this is also a systemic pesticideto prevent scale and a host of other insects. Try that and if it doesn't work, get back with us and we'll try something else. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on July 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a white Phalaenopsis orchid that I received about 3 months ago. At the time it had about 9 buds. Only 2-3 have opened. The others look very healthy but will not open. The plant has really taken off and produced a new shoot with buds and the main stem has produced a lot of new buds that have opened very quickly. My concern is that the main stem is now getting very "loopy" and heavy. It's not feasible to stake it. Should I be concerned???? |
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Debra Deutsch - USA |
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Answer |
| Dear Debra: go ahead and stake the spike. If there is a delay in the flowers opening, the plant might be under some sort of stress. You can gently pull the orchid out of the pot and inspect the roots to see how healthy they are. Usually, in the summer, phals are putting on new growth instead of trying to bloom. If the leaves become "floppy," the orchid might not be getting enough water and/or the roots might be dead. If this is the case, you might want to cut all the spikes off and repot the plant if you want to save it. |
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David Schaffter |
| I understand that phals should be repotted when they finish blooming, when the flowering spike is done. Well what about phal bellina/violacea var borneo, which continue to bloom from the same spike/flower stem year after year? When is it safe to repot bellina when there is still a green spike on it? |
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Hanh |
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| You can repot when the medium starts to break down or if the root system starts to die back. The best time to repot is April, May, or June, just before or early on into the growing season. Your plants will have all summer to put on fresh roots & new growth. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on April 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| I received an orchid as a gift and am not really sure about the care of the orchid. I have found various websites with different advice tips on the watering of Phaleanopsis. Some say, put gravel or stones in a tray on the bottom of the pot with water in it, other sites say drain the plant after watering and do not allow it to sit in a tray of water. Which is correct? Also, how do you know when it is time to water? Someone told me to use a long skewer to push into the planting medium, if it comes out moist, not time to water, if it comes out dry, time to water, is this correct? |
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Dawn |
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| Dawn, actually all answers are pretty accurate. Phals do not like to be kept wet, only damp, so watering will depend on how fast your plant medium dries out. Most of us just stick a finger in the medium, about an inch or so. If it's dry, you need to water. Be careful not to wet the leaves. If water sits in the leaf axils you could end up with crown rot. The gravel tray is to maintain higher humidity when grown indoors, however you shouldn't let the pot sit in water, only on top of the gravel. You might want to check our Orchid Culture section. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Dear Dawn: As one who has tried growing phalaenopsis indoors, I can tell you that there are many factors that make this a difficult task to say the least. In no particular order, they are: poor air movement, dry air, and poor light. That is not to say that people haven't been successful doing it, but it takes more time and money than the casual orchid enthusiast is able or willing to spend. And it takes patience and perseverance as well. However, there are a few things that people can do to help their phals along. The advice about putting them on trays of gravel with water in them is a good one. That will increase the humidity around the plant, which is very important to phals. But since you do not want to have the plant sitting in water (another good advice you found), the water level should be kept just below the top of the gravel, where the pot will be placed, so that it doesn't touch the water. Don't forget to frequently check the water level and add more water if necessary. Another thing you can do is place the orchid next to a south-facing window so it can get good filtered light. You also might want to give it some air movement to keep it from rotting. However, don't place your orchid where it will get cold air from an A/C vent. You don't say where you are from, so I cannot take the weather in your part of the world into consideration. Nevertheless, I can say that if you live in a warm place, your orchid will be much happier outside than it will indoors; you can bring it inside to enjoy the blooms, but take it back out after the flowers are gone. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on April 27, 2003) |
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| I have been given a phalaenopsis as a present. It has three spikes and is in flower as well as having numerous buds. However, some of the buds are turning yellow. Can you tell me if this is normal or explain what it is I am doing wrong. Thanks. |
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Dawn |
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| Dear Patricia: It sounds like your orchid buds might be 'blasting', or as you say, turning yellow and dropping off before they open. This is caused by some sort of stress to the plant. It may have received too cold of temperature, the orchid may have dried out (Phals like to have their roots moist all the time), or the roots may have died (due to rot caused by too much water). It's hard to tell without looking at the plant. Try to keep the orchid away from too cold of weather. Keep at 70 to 80 degrees F, and don't over water. Keep the medium moist, but not soggy. Check out our Orchid Culture section for tips and more information on Phals. You also might have a friend who knows about orchids who might be able to offer advice. |
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David Schaffter |
| A Phal purchased in June (then in bloom) began producing a new leaf in October, then suddenly started producing a kiki. The new leaf growth has remained the same size while the kiki is growing larger. At the first sign of the kiki, I checked the plant roots and the bark I had repoted it in a few weeks after purchase. It seemed dried out so I repotted this time in sphagnum moss. Kiki continues to grow. Other Phals growing next to it are fine. The orchid books I have all mention the appearance of kikis as an indication of plant stress, but do not say how to look after the kiki on the stem, or when to or how to remove from stem, or what medium to put this tiny plant in to successfully grow it into a mature plant. The kiki has two healthy looking green leaves, no visible roots yet. Have heard of kiki paste to try and start a kiki. Does one also put this around the base of a self-started kiki, and if so, where can I get some? Helene, Ontario, Canada. |
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Helene - Ontario, Canada |
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| Dear Helene: I'm not too familiar with kiki paste, but I think if you leave the kiki on until early summer, you should have roots. When the kiki has 2-3 roots, you can safely remove it from the stem. Pot in spagnum moss and keep an eye on it. It should become established over the summer and bloom again the following spring. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Dear Helene: I contacted Jim Brasch, the Director of Plant Hormones Canada (makers of Keikigrow Plus) and he stated the following: "Thank you for the inquiry. It happens to identify a major concern. Keikigrow Plus should not be used in the area where roots are expected. The hormone (a cytokinin) in Keikigrow Plus is an anti-auxin. That is to say that it will inhibit root development. If assistance is required for root development, Keikiroot may be applied. If Keikigrow Plus has been used to produce the keiki (and therefore not causing stress on the plant) in excessive amounts, then the plant should be warmed as much as possible and the extra Keikigrow Plus removed carefully with a Kleenex or similar wiper." There is extensive information on both Keikigrow Plus and Keikiroot on Plant Hormones Canada's web site (www.orchidmall.com/hormones), including a slide show on how to use their products. |
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Fred Armando |
| Please help me to revive my phalaenopsis orchid. I just received the orchid as a birthday gift and noticed that all the roots were rotten and dead. I thought that the best thing to do was cut out all the dead and rotten ones but ended up having the orchid without any roots. Right now my orchid is in a glass jar in water. I have no experience with orchids. Please let me know what I need to do next. |
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Sue - New York, NY - USA |
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| Dear Sue: First, get your plant out of the glass of water. If your plant has no roots, it will not get any water, only the rots. You might try placing your orchid on a bed of damp spagnum moss, and hope it will start sending out roots this spring. Once you have some good roots, then you can plant. |
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David Schaffter |
| I have three phalaenopsis that I purchased last year, I cut the spikes on each of them when they were finished blooming. I have grouped the three together in a tray filled with pebbles, I water then once a week. The plants themselves all appear healthy, they have new leaves have grown and new green roots, however none of them have sent up any spikes and it is almost march. Do you have any advice for me? I in north central Florida. |
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Christine - Gainesville, FL - USA |
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| Dear Christine: Phalaenopsis need a difference in temperature from day to night in order to bloom. If your phals received about 60 to 65 degrees during the night for about a week, that should initiate them to bloom, providing they receive adequate water and fertilizer. Check out the Orchid Culture section of our web site for further care. |
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David Schaffter |
| Please help!! I have just returned from the Orchid Show at the Seacrest Hotel in Falmouth - it was fascinating - I had no idea that there were so many different types or that some of them have a scent. At the end of the show I decided to buy a beautiful pinkish Phal. Unfortunately - when leaving the hotel and getting to the car - a huge gust of wind came off the ocean and snapped the top half of my phal. off - now instead of a sort of shepherd's crook looking plant with five or six blossoms I have a straight plant with one. Have I killed it?? I really truly know nothing about orchids and could really use help with what to do. Thanks! |
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Stacey - Centerville, USA |
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| Stacey: Your phal will bloom again, but not until next year, providing the plant receives good care over the summer growing months. Check the Orchid Culture section of our web site for growing tips. Also, check out your local orchid society for expert information from members who grow phals. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Dear Stacey, all you hurt was the inflorescence, not the plant itself. That shepherd's crook is called a spike, and every year a new spike will come out with new flowers. Unfortunately, this year's inflorescence got broken off, but take care of your plant and it will bloom again. In general, phalaenopsis need shade and moisture around the roots (but not too much). They also need good air movement and high air humidity. As David mentioned, we have good growing tips in the Orchid Culture section of our web site. We have an article on phalaenopsis in the East Everglades Orchid Society section and a culture sheet in the AOS section. Good luck with your plant. |
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Fred Armando |
| Help! Six months ago I became an owner of a phalaenopsis plant after a wedding - it was the centerpiece. I have had no real luck with it and didn't read up on caring for an orchid until after it started looking sickly. It came with mossy stuff that never really dried and seemed to be rotting the roots, so I repotted to its original ceramic container with fern bark. Unfortunately, I haven't been very good about watering it regularly. Both leaves are dark green and shriveled. It has been sitting by a windowsill facing east, but not getting very much direct light. I repotted, again, to a clay pot and removed all the shriveled roots. The roots also had some slimy black stuff that I removed as well. It is growing new roots and seems to have the will to live. I have moved it to a west-facing window above a radiator. I have put it on a plate with a wet rag (until I get pebbles) and covered it loosely with plastic to keep the humidity level higher because the air in my apartment seems very dry and cool and I don't control the heat. I have also placed a light about 2 feet above the plant. I am moving to a brownstone in 2 weeks with better lighting where I can control the heat, although still through radiators. By the way, I live in NJ. Am I doing the right thing? Should I do anything differently? My husband gave me a new phal for Christmas and I want to turn over a new leaf and really start caring for my orchids. Help! |
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Kathy - New Jersey, USA |
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| You did the right thing by removing the dead roots & repotting the plant. Phals do not like direct sunlight, otherwise leaf burn might occur. Keep the plant well-watered, but don't let the roots remain soggy. Roots should be in a moist environment. Feed with Peters 20 20 20 every month during winter & every other week in summer. Check out our website on plant culture and check with your area & search out a local orchid club to really learn how to grow prize-winning orchids. |
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David Schaffter |
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| In the Orchid Culture of our web site, you will find both an AOS culture sheet for phalaenopsis and an article on phals written by a member of the East Everglades Orchid Society. I'm not sure where exactly you're located, but you'll find a few New Jersey orchid societies in our Links section. You might want to join one of them. Besides meeting other orchid enthusiasts, you will also have access to invaluable orchid culture information that is applicable to the climate conditions in your area. |
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Fred Armando |
| My phaleanopsis has just sprouted a kiki and I'm not sure how to separate and replant it. The plant was a gift from a stranger and I would love to return the gift by giving her the healthy kiki. |
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Erin - Toronto, Canada |
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| If the kiki has 2-3 roots, then you can cut it off from the stem & pot it up. If not, leave it on the plant until springtime. If you repot, put the plant in a plastic pot with a mixture of sphagnum moss/treefern/charcol mixture, or better yet, get a phalaenopsis potting mixture at your local nursery. |
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David Schaffter |
| I've a bunch of phalaenopsis that need to be repotted, but I heard that the right time to do it is in the spring. Will it hurt my plants to repot them now? Should I wait until next spring to do it? Some of them look like they can do fine until then, but some look like they need repotting now. Another thing -- is it okay to switch to a bloom booster for phalaenopsis? I usually switch to peter's bloom booster fertilizer around sep/oct, but I've never done it with my phals. Thanks! |
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Robin Burleigh - Daytona, FL - USA |
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| Dear Robin - I would repot the phals that look look they need it now. If the others can wait until spring, then let them wait. We still have a little growing time left before it gets cool. Phals usually start sending up bloom spikes when the nights get cooler, around Oct. - Nov. in South Florida. This would be a good time to start with a bloom booster. |
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David Schaffter |
| I have a phalaenopsis right now in bloom and now another spike is coming. Should I put this orchid where ever i want to enjoy it or put it in part sun part shade where she usually is? |
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Alexander Bello - Miami, FL - USA |
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| Phalaenopsis should be kept in a shady location at all times, even when in spike. However, don't move the plant around, or turn it in relation to the sun. This will cause the developing spike & flowers to twist and turn and cause the display to be unattractive. |
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David Schaffter |
| My Phals have all dropped their flowers but the spikes are still green. Will keeping the spikes to wait for future kekis hurt future blooming? |
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Elaine - Homestead, FL - USA |
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| You can leave the green stems on & they might form kikis, but not all the time. When they turn brown, then you can cut them off. |
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David Schaffter |
| Hi, thanks for answering all of our questions; your site is so very helpful! I bought a phal. from a store for $8 and it has stayed really healthy (I think) for about 6 months. It hasn't sent out a spike yet, but where I would expect a spike, nearly 40cm from the base leaves, a new set of leaves has started. What do I do with it now? Should I divide the plant in two? I can't find any information about this. Thanks for any info that you can provide! |
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Jennifer K. - Abbotsford, Canada |
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| Dear Jennifer: If your phal is putting out a new kiki and not just new leaves on the original crown, then it can be divided. However, be sure the new kiki has its own roots (2-3) and you are not cutting off the kiki from the top of the crown. Usually, kikis come out from the side of the main stem. Sometimes when a phal kikis like this, it might indicate the plant is under some kind of stress. How are the orchid's roots? You can safely lift the plant out of the pot and check the plant without doing any harm. If the roots are brown & rotten, then it's time to repot. |
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David Schaffter |
| My phalaenopsis orchid is done blooming. I have a stem about four feet which had 8 nice blooms, how do I cut this back or do I just leave it? |
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Steve - Vancouver, Canada |
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| Steve - If the stem is still green and looks alive, I would leave it on for a while, because sometimes they might throw a kiki. Wait until springtime and see what happens. If it has turned yellow or brown, then go ahead and snip it. |
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David Schaffter |
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