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EEOS Original Articles |
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The many articles in our Orchid Culture section can solve most of your culture issues. Check them out before submitting a question. |
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AOS Culture Sheets |
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The AOS Culture Sheets are very thorough guides for growing orchids successfully. Read the one pertaining to your kind of orchid before asking a culture question. |
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Ask Your Own Question |
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If the articles and culture sheets in our Orchid Culture section did not solve your problem, feel free to submit your own orchid culture question. |
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(Posted on March 9, 2004) |
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Question |
| Hi, I bought a Phal a couple of weeks ago in Barcelona, a city with the perfect climate for this beautiful flower, and translated it by car to Salamanca, middle-of spain cold city, where I have it in my hot and dry apartment. Yes, dreadful. 4 of its 5 initial flowers have dried and dropped (and so did the small buds - there where about 4 of them), one of its four leaves has also dried and another is cut in two. Fortunately the last flower is doing great, but I don't know if I'll be fortunate enough to see the plant flower again... I've been informed about the common treat of a phal, but could you give me some more helpful tips due to all it has been through? Do you think it will flower again? Thanks very much. |
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Dora - Salamanca, Spain |
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Answer |
| Sometimes when you move an orchid from a humid to a dry climate, you will get bud drop due to stress. If you repot the plant this spring and it adapts to the change in climate, then it might reflower. Try to keep a constant humidity between 60-80%. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Dora, phals, as well as most other plants may be stressed if moved from one environment to another, especially if the change is severe. Your phal probably will bloom again the next blooming season if it has all the conditions it needs. Please check our Orchid Culture section for more info. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on March 9, 2004) |
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Question |
| Hi... I have one phal. orchid that has dried out and turned brownish black at the top. There is one leaf attached that is yellowish green. The other two below it are fine. It has been like this for over 6 months now with no change. The roots look healthy, and I know it's in the right growing conditions because all of my other ones have a spike and are doing well. It doesn't look like it's dying or growing. Is there hope or anything I can do? |
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Tarryn - San Jose, CA - USA |
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Answer |
| You can hold on to the plant until the summer and it might put out a keiki or start new growth from the crown. If you get nothing this summer, then chances are the plant is dead. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Tarryn, it sounds as if your phal has crown rot. Be sure when you water, you don't wet the plant itself, only water the medium so that the roots get the moisture. If any water collects in the leaf axils, dump it out and make sure you have adequate air circulation. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on March 9, 2004) |
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Question |
| I bought my first orchid, a blooming Phaelenopsis, last spring. After the stalk died off I repotted it in bark in a ceramic orchid pot. It lived on my desk under a full-spectrum desk lamp (we get almost no natural light in this house at this time of year) and I fed and watered it religiously and regularly. It put out one very large new leaf shortly after it finished blooming, and to my delight, it started a new stalk this winter, along with a few beautiful thick roots. I was so excited... and then, when it was only about 3" tall, my toddler climbed up onto the desk and broke the stalk off. I discovered this on Christmas day and it's the closest my daughter has ever come to death. <g> I've since moved the orchid (and lamp) to a much higher and child-safe area, but I'm so disappointed that the stalk was broken off. Will it begin to put up a new one any time soon or will it be months again? (To console myself, I just bought another phaelenopsis with one stalk in bloom and another on the way). One more question - small black gnats have taken up residence in the medium. Every couple of days I stir them up and kill as many as I can. How can I go about getting rid of them permanently? Thanks! |
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Meghan Rodberg - Seattle, WA - USA |
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| Meghan, depending on where the spike on you phal was broken, it may still bloom. Don't worry, if your plant is healthy, it'll bloom again. Make sure the ceramic pot you're using has adequate drainage. I suspect the potting medium is staying too wet, providing rotting environment for the insects to thrive in. Phals should be repotted each year. Any insecticide suitable for orchids should take care of your gnats. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Just to complement Bob's answer, the best time to repot your phals is in the spring. Choose a pot with good drainage (side slits are great) and a medium that will keep the roots moist but won't hold too much moisture. The best thing to do is find out what people use in your area. Try to visit a local orchid nursery or contact an orchid club around where you live. In Seattle, the Northwest Orchid Society is a good place to start. |
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Fred Armando |
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Answer |
| Phalaenopsis down in Florida like to see several nights of 60-65 degree temps before they start to spike up. We get blooming phals around the end of February and the beginning of March. If your orchid was just starting to spike up and not too developed, it may re-spike and bloom in spring. Give it a try. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on February 14, 2004) |
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Question |
| Hi. Three years ago I was given a beautiful Phalaenopsis, which continued flowering non-stop until about a month and a half ago. Since then, I've repotted it, and the two stems (?spikes?) have produced/are producing 5 keikis between them. The largest already has 2 (longish) aerial roots, the others have none. Being totally unfamiliar with orchids, I've been trawling the internet to find out more information. I now know what the technical term is for these babies... BUT half the sites I've seen talk about "sterile conditions" and all sorts of specialist equipment etc etc for cutting these keikis off and replanting them. I have neither the conditions nor the equipment. What on earth do I do now? HOW do I separate the mother plant from the large keiki without damaging either?? If you can tell me the answer, please email me . THANK you!!! (Apologies for the note of desperation, but I really *don't* know what to do!) |
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Anna Lindsay - Cambridge, England |
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| Anna, you haven't trawled in the right places. The only specialized equipment you need is a sharp knife, scissors or clippers that have been sterilized. You can use a weak bleach solution, T.S.P. (tri-sodium phosphate) or a good fungicide. For good orchid information, please check out our Orchid Culture section. There you can find all the information you need to maintain your orchids successfully. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Leave the keikis on the stem until spring time and then repot in sphagnum moss or like you repot your phals. If you need to cut them from the parent plant, then plant keikis in sphagnum moss and keep them warm and don't let them dry out too much. Make sure your keikis have a good set of roots before seperating them from the stem. (Usually 2-3 will suffice.) |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi Anna. I know how exciting it can be to see keikis on your phals. I always feel like: "Look! I made a new plant!" But you can relax: all you need is a pair of sharp scissors, something to sterilize them with (alcohol, bleach, etc.) and some potting material. As David said, the best time to do this is in the spring. To separate your keiki from the mother plant (the rule of thumb here is 3 roots per keiki), cut the spike without touching the baby plant. It's better to have a little bit of spike left, then to damage the keiki. Plant it as you do your other phalaenopsis and watch it grow! After you've removed all keikis from the spike, cut it off from the mother plant; it has been putting a lot of energy into supporting these keikis and it now needs a break in order to grow strong for the next flowering season. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on February 14, 2004) |
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Question |
| I see in a lot of comments (including this site) that phals don't bloom from the same stem again - but mine did! After the blooms were done the first time, the stem stayed green and completely dormant for about 4 months - then about 4 new stems grew off of the old one, and each produced several blooms! Less a question than a comment, you should just make sure people know NOT to cut off a stem unless it withers on its own - with proper care they often rebloom from the same stem, up to two years later. Cut them off completely when they yellow and wither on their own, which they'll do quickly when they're done with a particular spike. |
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Jim - New York, NY - USA |
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| Jim, I don't know where you got your information about the second blooming of phals, but anyone that grows them knows that they will quite often bloom a second time, however this can stress the plant if it's struggling. Thanks for the comment and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Jim, it is a known fact that most phals do indeed bloom again from the same spike. They can even shoot out new growth (keikis) from spikes that have finished blooming. It all boils down to an issue of energy. Basically, all plants do is growing and reproducing. When the orchid is blooming, less energy goes into growing, and vice-versa. If you plan on keeping your phals for a long time and having them bloom bigger and better each year, then I recommend that you cut the flowering spike after it finished blooming the first time. This will allow the plant to start putting its energy into growing right away, becoming bigger and stronger for the next flowering season. That doesn't mean, however, that it is wrong to leave the spike on. Many people do and get additional blooms that way. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on February 14, 2004) |
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Question |
| What soil, and how to re-pot Phal. Grace Palm? Thank you. |
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Jyne - San Francisco, CA - USA |
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| Jyne, please visit our Orchid Culture section for repotting information on phals. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Hi, Jyne. Phals like to be on a moist substrate. They should not dry out completely between waterings. So you should use pots and a potting medium that help to hold moisture. That being said, it will depend on your growing conditions. Here in South Florida I've seen people grow phals in wooden baskets and sphagnum moss, plastic pots and bark, and even mounted on trees. Watering schedules vary accordingly. I myself grow phals in clay pots and sphagnum moss (with a layer of styrofoam peanuts on the bottom). I water my plants once or twice a week, depending on humidity and wind conditions. The best thing for you to do would be to talk to local growers to find a good way to grow phals under your conditions. It also might be a good idea to join an orchid club in your area. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on February 10, 2004) |
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Question |
| We have had a very wet Summer and my Phalaenopsis (which I grow outside) have developed crown rot. Is there anything that will save them once they have lost all of their leaves. The roots are still alive and heathy and I have sprayed with a fungicide. |
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Julie - La Manzanilla Del Mar, Jalisco - Mexico |
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| Just hope the plant lasts until spring until you get some warmer weather and the plant just might put out new leaves. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Julie, your phals probably roted due to accumulated water in the crown area. To avoid this, you should think about bringing them to a covered area during the wet season. Some people grow their phalaenopsis in wooden baskets (with sphagnum moss) and then hang those baskets sideways, so that the water can run out of the leaf axils. I've seen it done successfully here in South Florida, where a rainy, hot summer can cause a lot problems for phals. |
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Fred Armando |
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(Posted on
February 5, 2004) |
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Question |
| I have a Phalenopsis orchid which I purchased from a seller on E-Bay about a year ago. I was very excited when it finally grew a flower spike a couple of months ago. The first flowers started to open up about two weeks ago, but they haven't opened all the way. The phal is a hybrid called Windsong's Sonnet 'Cameo.' The grower has a patent pending on the plant, so I'm assuming it's a new cross. With the flowers failing to open up all the way, is it possible I got a dud hybrid? Do you have any reccomendations? Thanks for your input! |
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Gina Romero - Milwaukee, WI - USA |
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| Gina, any sudden change in the environment (temperature, etc.) during the blooming process can cause the flowers to delay or not open at all. I doubt if it's a flaw in the plant itself. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| You could have a bad hybrid or your growing conditions might not be the best. Check the roots of the plant and see if they are healthy. When Phals open their blooms, make sure they stay warm with no exposure to cold drafts. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a Phal that is doing amazingly well. It has a large root hanging outside the pot that is now starting to get 'buds' on it. Should I do something with that root or leave it alone??? |
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Debra Deutsch, Princeton, NJ - USA |
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| Leave it alone until springtime and then you can seperate it from the parent plant when you repot, then repot it as a baby phal. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a Phalaenopsis orchid that I got about 2 months ago. All blooms opend and then started turning brown and falling down. The leaves are turning yellow. I've read couple articles it said to cut of the dead roots. After cutting the roots I placed the plant into plastic bag with a little moisture and air inside. How long do I keep it there? Will it help developing new roots, or should I do something else? |
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Ole - Ontario, Canada |
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| Remove the plant from the plastic bag, or it will probably rot real quick. Remove dead roots & plant in fresh sphagnum moss and dont let potting mixture dry out. Keep the orchid from getting wet, especially in the crown. Roots might be hard to come by this time of year, but keep the plant as warm as possible. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Ole, the first thing I would do is to remove your plant from the bag! It needs air to survive. If you still have viable roots, please check our Orchid Culture section for instructions on repotting your phal. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I purchased a Phaleanopsis about 6 months ago, it was the largest Phal I've ever seen, the bottom foliage leaves are about 1ft in length, the spikes are about the size of a very large pencil, about 2 ft tall, about 15-20 blooms (size of a baseball)....then suddenly, the bottom leaf had a "soggy" "mushy" area, about the size of a quarter, the next day, the entire leaf was mush, so I cut it off....several day's later the next leaf up is doing the same thing....The plant's root system is very healthy, what I can see of it anyway, it's in a plastic pot, sitting inside a clay pot...it would fall over from the weight of the plant if not for the clay pot. It is definetly root bound, and time for repotting, but I didn't want to interfere with the blooms. Have I over watered?, is it a fungus? rot? Thanks for your help! |
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Cindy - Spurger, USA |
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| You might hold back on the watering a bit, but more important, is make sure you have good air movement around your plant. Place it under a ceiling fan or put a small fan in its vicinity. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a phaleanopsis that was blooming beautifully when I got it (2-3 yrs. ago) but has not bloomed since. We've moved several times, so it's had a lot of changes and lost some leaves along the way. 1) what can I do to encourage blooming? 2) how often should it get fertilized and with what formula? I was first advised to feed it once a month (I always water once a week), which I did for the first years, with a 30-10-10. Recently, I was told to feed it once a week, which I've been doing for the last month, with a 20-10-20. It currently has 5 leaves and one visible root coming off the side. No sign of flower. I have it in an east-facing bathroom with very bright light (no direct sun on the plant) and our summer has been very wet and humid with some hot periods. We live just off the ocean so the air is almost always moist. 3) I had another phaleanopsis (the really gorgeous one) which I had transplanted by a Chinese fellow who owned a shop with lots of orchids. I bought a beautiful ceramic pot with a hole in the bottom and he planted it with a bark mix. About 3 mos. later the plant turned yellow and fell over dead. When I removed it from it's pot it was totally damp - I was, at that point watering once a week - 10 days and fertilizing once a month. I'm assuming there was not enough drainage in the ceramic pot since everything had been fine before when it was in it's green plastic pot. Now I'm afraid to repot my last remaining ph. which is still in it's green plastic. Can you enlighten me???? I adore ph's & would love to grow them. I'm not starting out too well. Thanks very much. |
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Linda Patton - Marblehead, MA - USA |
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| Ceramic pots don't offer good drainage & drying capabilities like clay pots. The plastic pots have several holes in them for this purpose. In the summer when orchids are actively growing, we fertilize every 2 weeks & once a month in the winter months when it's cooler. Make sure your plants are flushed with plenty of water between fertilizing to flush out any salts. A buildup of fertilizer salts can damage roots. Make sure you have good air circulation & fresh potting medium for your orchids. When repotting phals, cut off all dead and rotten roots, as your plant will make new ones. Don't keep your phals too wet or else you will get the rots. Let the medium almost dry out before watering again. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on October 1, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have two (yes, only two) Phals, both of which were given to me as gifts, and were in full bloom. I've had them for about three months, and they both flowered beautifully. One is still in bloom (five very full blossoms that look very healthy) but the top leaf has developed yellow splotches that are slightly raised and wet-looking when they first appear. Any suggestions on whether this is a watering/light problem or something I need fungicide for (I really hope I don't have to destroy my plant...). Many thanks. |
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Sarah |
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| Sounds like you have a bacterial spotting caused by standing water on the leaves. Make sure your plants have good air movement and hold back on the watering a bit. Putting your plants by a fan will do them no harm. Let the medium dry just to the point of being moist. Check out our Orchid Culture section for suggestions on dilution rates for common fungicides and insecticides. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on September 29, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have only had orchids for one year and I recently repotted one of my Phalaenopsis due to media decay and now all of the blooms have fallen off and the spikes are turning yellow. What happened and what should I do? Should I just cut the spikes down all the way? How do you know when and where to cut the spikes if the plant still has blooms on it? One of my orchids still has blooms on it, but I thought they should have been gone by now so the spikes could be cut down to ready the plant for the next bloom. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! |
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Rebecca Topa - Scranton, USA |
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| Rebecca, when your phal is in bloom is not the time to repot unless it's an emergency. You will more than likely lose the blooms you have. Once the old spikes turn yellow or brown, cut them off. They're done until next year. It's a good idea to repot phals at least every two years. That way you can be sure the medium isn't rotted and you can check the roots for damage. You might want to check our Orchid Culture section for more detailed growing information. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| After the Phal is done blooming, you can cut the spikes off. New blooms come from new spikes, usually in the spring. It is more important to cut off the old spikes and repot you plant so it will be able to put new growth next season. |
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David Schafter |
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(Posted on September 29, 2003) |
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Question |
| Do the hybrid Phalalaenopsis bloom all the time or is there a down time. My Mom was given one and it has been blooming for a few months and just got some new buds but she was wondering if they go to sleep in the winter or you give them special care or what. Thay have only been in the house as we have 4 seasons here. Thanks for any help. |
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Addie Weiss - Bethlehem, USA |
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| All plants including orchids like a rest between blooms. Phals usually bloom in the winter to springtime in S. Florida (we don't get too much of a winter here, just a cool down). Phal budding is initiated by cooler weather, like a week of 60-degree nights. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Addie, phals need a distinctive temperature differential in order to bloom, usually in the spring. Please check our Orchid Culture section for more detailed growing information. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| Hello, I have a phanaleopsis that is now two years old. I had it with flowers, cut the stem just above the second or third line (if I remember well...). The stem dried out and died. The leaves are a nice green (not too dark), she has made 3 new big leaves in those two years, I have changed the potting, but still no flower. I also mist most of my plants, so I mist this one too. What can I do to get a stem with flowers ? I've looked everywhere for answers, never got any, it's healty but just gives leaves... Thank you! |
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Elyse - Montreal, Canada |
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| It sounds like the plant is healthy and your cultivation is correct, however it might not be the right time for the phal to bloom. In South Florida, our blooming time for Phals is in the spring. Phals need several days (and nights) of 60 deg. F of weather to entice the orchid to bloom. You might be able to try this in Canada earlier than we can do it down here. We don't see those temps until about November. |
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David Schaffter |
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| Elyse, you didn't mention anything about fertilizer or your growing temperature. Please check our Orchid Culture section to read the AOS culture sheets for phals for growing requirements. Your plant needs a temperature differential of 15 to 20 degrees to bloom. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a phaleanopsis that was blooming beautifully when I got it (2-3 yrs. ago) but has not bloomed since. We've moved several times, so it's had a lot of changes and lost some leaves along the way. 1) What can I do to encourage blooming? 2) How often should it get fertilized and with what formula? I was first advised to feed it once a month (I always water once a week), which I did for the first years, with a 30-10-10. Recently, I was told to feed it once a week, which I've been doing for the last month, with a 20-10-20. It currently has 5 leaves and one visible root coming off the side. No sign of flower. I have it in an east-facing bathroom with very bright light (no direct sun on the plant) and our summer has been very wet & humid with some hot periods. We live just off the ocean so the air is almost always moist. 3) I had another phaleanopsis (the really gorgeous one) which I had transplanted by a Chinese fellow who owned a shop with lots of orchids. I bought a beautiful ceramic pot with a hole in the bottom and he planted it with a bark mix. About 3 mos. later the plant turned yellow and fell over dead. When I removed it from it's pot it was totally damp - I was, at that point watering once a week - 10 days and fertilizing once a month. I'm assuming there was not enough drainage in the ceramic pot since everything had been fine before when it was in it's green plastic pot. Now I'm afraid to repot my last remaining ph. which is still in it's green plastic. Can you enlighten me???? I adore ph's & would love to grow them. I'm not starting out too well. Thanks very much. |
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Linda Patton - Marblehead, MA - USA |
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Answer |
| Linda, first, let's address the latter question. Just because someone sells orchids, does not mean they are experts, by any means. Buy an orchid from an orchid nursery. Any reputable nursery will teach you how to repot your plant if you ask. The best way to determine when your plant needs to be watered is to stick your finger down into the medium. If it's damp, don't water. Please check our Orchid Culture section for detailed phalaenopsis care. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| My Phal has tiny white spots on its leaves, forms in clusters. I was told this is normal for Phals. My orchid looks healthy... except for this. Is this true? |
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Jean Lutz - Miami, FL - USA |
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| If those white spots are raised lumps and can be removed from the leaves with your fingers, then I would say they might be mealybugs. It's hard to tell without looking at them. If they are mealybugs, they can be dealt with by spraying with an insecticide or with a mixture of water and liquid detergent (2-3 drops/gal water). |
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David Schaffter |
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| Hi, Jean. I don't think white spots on your phals is normal. It sounds like scale that can be taken care of by using an old toothbrush with alcohol and applying Orthene to the leaves. Most of us use Ortho fire ant killer mixed with 2 tblsp per gallon of water. Used on a regular basis, this is also a systemic pesticideto prevent scale and a host of other insects. Try that and if it doesn't work, get back with us and we'll try something else. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on July 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a white Phalaenopsis orchid that I received about 3 months ago. At the time it had about 9 buds. Only 2-3 have opened. The others look very healthy but will not open. The plant has really taken off and produced a new shoot with buds and the main stem has produced a lot of new buds that have opened very quickly. My concern is that the main stem is now getting very "loopy" and heavy. It's not feasible to stake it. Should I be concerned???? |
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Debra Deutsch - USA |
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Answer |
| Dear Debra: go ahead and stake the spike. If there is a delay in the flowers opening, the plant might be under some sort of stress. You can gently pull the orchid out of the pot and inspect the roots to see how healthy they are. Usually, in the summer, phals are putting on new growth instead of trying to bloom. If the leaves become "floppy," the orchid might not be getting enough water and/or the roots might be dead. If this is the case, you might want to cut all the spikes off and repot the plant if you want to save it. |
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David Schaffter |
| I understand that phals should be repotted when they finish blooming, when the flowering spike is done. Well what about phal bellina/violacea var borneo, which continue to bloom from the same spike/flower stem year after year? When is it safe to repot bellina when there is still a green spike on it? |
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Hanh |
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| You can repot when the medium starts to break down or if the root system starts to die back. The best time to repot is April, May, or June, just before or early on into the growing season. Your plants will have all summer to put on fresh roots & new growth. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on April 27, 2003) |
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Question |
| I received an orchid as a gift and am not really sure about the care of the orchid. I have found various websites with different advice tips on the watering of Phaleanopsis. Some say, put gravel or stones in a tray on the bottom of the pot with water in it, other sites say drain the plant after watering and do not allow it to sit in a tray of water. Which is correct? Also, how do you know when it is time to water? Someone told me to use a long skewer to push into the planting medium, if it comes out moist, not time to water, if it comes out dry, time to water, is this correct? | |
