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EEOS Original Articles |
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The many articles in our Orchid Culture section can solve most of your culture issues. Check them out before submitting a question. |
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AOS Culture Sheets |
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The AOS Culture Sheets are very thorough guides for growing orchids successfully. Read the one pertaining to your kind of orchid before asking a culture question. |
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Ask Your Own Question |
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If the articles and culture sheets in our Orchid Culture section did not solve your problem, feel free to submit your own orchid culture question. |
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(Posted on February 10, 2004) |
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Question |
| Help!! I purchased my first vanda orchids at an orchid show this summer. (A. Mikasa, V. Pat Delight, V. Trevor Rathbone x V. Kasemm's Delight, D. Anek ,etc.) I hung them outdoors in my large gardenia plant. I fertilized them once a week with Grow More Orchid food 30-10-10 and watered them every other day. They received late afternoon sun only, as I live in a hot dry valley. They grew great. Now its winter and I am trying to provide a place for them. I can not leave them outdoors because the average temperature is about 30-50 degrees at night and sometimes it freezes. I put them in my garage underneath fluorescent plant lights. Will this be enough light? How often should I water them? How often should I fertilize and what should I use? How low can the temperature go in my garage without hurting my new babies? Any advice that you can give to this new vanda orchid grower will be very much appreciated. |
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Marilyn Balduff - Granada Hills, CA - USA |
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Answer |
| Marilyn, congratulations on your purchase. They're fine orchids. Due to the amount of information you're requesting, I'm going to refer you back to our Orchid Culture section. For some detailed information, check the articles on Vandas by our own EEOS members as well as the AOS vanda culture sheet. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Vandas can go as low as 45 degrees, but only for a short time and under optimum conditions, like NO wind, constant humidity (60-70%) and no more than 6-7 hours. Even then, it may depend on the orchid. It is best to keep them above 55 degrees and especially important to keep them out of the wind. In Florida in the winter when it gets down in the 40's and 50's, we keep the wind off them and don't water until it warms up, say around 70-80 degrees. If it's too cool, don't water. I don't know about keeping vandas under flourescent lights, but they need more light than that to grow. You might try infared lamps to keep them warm at night for a short period of time when it gets real cold. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on
February 5, 2004) |
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Question |
| have a Vanda that just does not look very healthy at all. The roots are all dried out and starting to rot. The leaves are also turning yellow and very tired looking. This poor old plant needs some tender loving care. Do I cut all of the roots off and will new ones sprout again if I take this drastic measure. It is a young plant and has never bloomed. I don't think that I over- watered it. But I did get a little desperate this morning and plunged it into some water to soak for awhile hoping to jolt it back to life. Do you think it is time to give up on it and buy a new plant or can she be saved? Thank you for your help. |
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Ada Vespa - Clermont, USA |
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| You might be better off getting a new vanda and fine tuning your culture techniques than trying to bring back the dead. Vandas that loose all their roots usually die unless growing conditions are optimal. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on
December 31, 2003) |
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Question |
| I have a beautiful blue Vanda, given to me about 6 years ago. It is in a greenhouse, and has bloomed profusely-at least 2-3 times a year. It now has gotten too tall, and when in bloom (now) the blossoms are almost pulling the plant over. I am trying to blance the plant by padding filament and tying the lines to the eyes on the bamboo basket. I am not too pleased with the looks of this, and I won't be able to do this many more times. There are no roots on the stem, so don't think I can devide. Any suggestions? Thanks. |
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Susan Childs - Lyme - USA |
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| You might try leaning the plant on its side in order to get new roots to come out further up the plant. There might be some hormones such as kiki paste you could use to induce roots, but use this as a last measure. The rule of thumb is to get 3 or more roots on the new plant & divide in late spring or early summer. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on October 5, 2003) |
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Question |
| Look, on a recently trip to Thailand, I bought two flasks containing 5 vandas each. From those, only 4 survived. I have those 4 seedlings hanging in baskets with bark for support, but they don't look pretty healthy. The weather here is hot and dry in the spring, with lots of rain in the summer and short cold spells in the winter (5C min). How can I make my plants happier? |
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David Garibaldi - Guadalajara, Mexico |
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| Small vandas need a high, constant humidity to thrive. Don't give them as much sun as a large, better established plant. Make sure they get fertilized with a dilute solution of fertilizer every 2 weeks & good air movement. Don't let them dry out too much. |
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David Schaffter |
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| David, it's not unusual to lose a few plants when repotting, but they should go into a community pot until the are large enough to live on their own. Please check our Orchid Culture section on vandas for more information. You also might want to visit Ruben In Orchids. He has an excellent website that answers many questions on orchid breeding. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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(Posted on October 5, 2003) |
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Question |
| Last week I received some vandas from Thailand. They were dipped in insecticide and fungicide prior to the shipment over. Since their arrival, some of the plants are getting leaves that are turning yellow and dropping off, others are fine. Could this be due to shock? I noticed some of the roots seemed to be turning brown and dry and I thought that might be shock as well??? Yet others that were shipped have spikes and seem to be doing well. |
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Diane - Pompano, USA |
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| Diane, vandas need a lot of water, sun, and air movement, but it's possible they got dehydrated in shipment. How long did it take for delivery? I would contact the vendor and explain what happened. Please check the cultural requirements for vandas in our Orchid Culture section. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Many orchids will go thru a shock whenever they are put in a box for several days without light and questionable temps and humidity. Adding to the stress is that they added chemicals to the plants before shipment. Some of the chemicals they use overseas might be different than what is reccommended here. Keep your plants in a semi-shaded area for a while and let them air out, but don't let them dry out too much. Your plants will probably need to put out new roots. If you do another shipment, it's best to do it in the late spring, so the plants have all summmer to recoup. It is common to lose a plant here or there whenever you receive a shipment overseas. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on October 2, 2003) |
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| I would like to know what causes vanda spikes to stop growing? They receive lots of light water and food. But I keep moving it into more sunny places. Once it spikes should I keep it in the same place? Also if the spike is just starting will it blast if I start to bring them in for the winter? They are in the greenhouse right now (not heated) it will go down to 45 tonight, I feel as if they will be ok in spike. What do you think? |
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Joann - New Castle, PA - USA |
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| Joann, something has obviously changed in your vanda growing conditions, whether it be watering, light, air movement or temperature. You might want to visit our Orchid Culture section and read the article by Dave Schaffter on vanda culture. When you move your vandas indoors, please remember you need about the same conditions they had outside for them to bloom. You also might want to check with an orchid club in your local area to compare notes. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Vanda buds shouldn't blast if you can keep the plant warm and the humidity high. Good sunlight will make better blooms. Keep your vanda warmer than 65 degrees in order to keep it growing. In Florida, when we get cold snaps (55 or colder) and vandas get left out over a few nights, they have a tendency to stop growing for the winter and need about 2 to 3 weeks of 80 degree weather or above to get them going again. Whatever you do, keep them from freezing and keep the cool, dry winds off of them. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on August 27, 2003) |
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| I am going to receive vandas from RF Orchids next week that are not in baskets. I want to know the quickest way to get new root growth. Also, I have a Vanda Robert's Delight, the big pink one, and the plant was bought at Lowes and I have it in full sun. I am getting yellow spots on the leaves, what is that from? I have 90 vandas and they are all in full sun. I also use superthrive and blossom booster twice a week. |
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Joann - New Castle, PA - USA |
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| Joann, the quickest way to get good root growth is to water on a regular basis, with regular fertilizing. Vandas need to be allowed to dry out between waterings and not be allowed to stay wet at night. It sounds as if your V. Robert's Delight is getting too much sun. I have one also and it lives in a shadehouse with 30 percent shadecloth. Strap-leaf vandas, as a rule, do not like or need full sun. Even though vandas are voracious eaters, they don't need that much nourishment. We use a balanced fertilizer (20-20-20) mixed 2 tbsp. per gallon outside once a week, and substitute with blossom booster once a month. Superthrive once every three or four weeks. Good luck with your vandas. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Hold back on the superthrive. Give your plants lots of light (not full sun) and a constant high humidity with good air movement. Keep them from going below 60 degrees, or else it will be next summer before new roots appear. |
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David Schaffter |
| I purchased a Vanda orchid about one year ago. It is hanging in a basket in our greenhouse where the temps get up about 90F. It is watered every day and is misted several times a day by automatic misters to keep the humidity up. The problem is that one at a time from the bottom of the orchid the leaves are slowly turning yellow and dropping off. It is in a basket with large bark for support and two of the roots are growing out beyond the bark. Other orchids in the greenhouse seem to be doing well - oncidiums, Paphs, etc. We have an evaporative cooler, and exhaust fan as well as an oscillating fan that comes on for several hours two or three times a day during the day only - not at night. What is wrong with the Vanda? It is down to three leaves and I would like to save it if possible. Thanks for any help you can provide. |
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Leslie Palocsay - Manteca, CA - USA |
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| Leslie, first, you might check your vanda for scale, especially in the leaf axils. It's a white, powdery looking substance that can be controlled by powdered orthene (fire ant killer) mixed 2 tbsp. per gallon of water and an old toothbrush. Yellowing and dropped-off of leaves can be caused by excessive heat. Some vandas are more heat tolerant than others. You might try getting the fan a little closer to the plant and make sure it's dry before nightfall. You might even leave the fans on at night. I hope this helps. Thanks for the question and for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
| Hi, my boyfriend and I bought a vanda orchid a few months ago. It was done flowering at the time we bought it, and we have been trying to give it plenty of water and light ever since. The problem is that most of its roots didn't look healthy. They were thin and brown, but there were a couple of thick green ones. Last week, I decided to cut off the dead looking roots and now am left with one healthy looking root. Should the whole thing look green when wet? Because it looks like it's turning black where it meets the center. Could I have some type of fungus? What should I do to ensure healthy roots? |
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Dharma - Ann Arbor, MI - USA |
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| Dharma, without knowing what type of vanda you have, it's difficult to help. There are several types of vandas & the water and light are different for different types. First, in general, vandas need at least 3 healthy roots to support it. Most vandas do not grow in soil, so they get most of their nourishment through the roots. Vandas need to be watered heavily early in the day & need good air circulation so the plant can dry out after watering. It sounds like your roots may be staying too wet. You may want to check out the articles on vandas in our Orchid Culture section. Thanks for the question & for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Vandas need lots of sunlight, fertilizer, and plenty of water in the warm summer months. With summer comming on, your orchid should put on new roots with plenty of food & water. Make sure it has warm temperatures and plenty of water. Don't cut the roots off if you can help it. These orchids use their roots to absorb & store moisture. If the roots shrivel up, turn brown & are no longer flexable, then you can remove them. Make sure your roots don't stay too wet. They should dry slightly, but at the same time, the plant should have a high humidity. Keep your vanda warm, don't let it get below 55 degrees. |
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David Schaffter |
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(Posted on April 27, 2003) |
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| I have acquired a root from a vanda orchid and was wondering if I can get it to grow from this stage. It is a good sized root, a minimum of 12 inches long with several other roots coming off of it. No plant cutting was available. Any help will be greatly appreciated. |
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Kim Wall - Winston-Salem, USA |
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| If you don't have the crown or meristemal tissue, you do not have any plant cells that will initiate new leaves. I've never heard of roots growing a new plant. |
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David Schaffter |
| HELP!!!!!! I need to know about the propagation of VANDAS. One of my plants have a new one that I want to transplant to a new wood hanger basket; but I don't know how.Will you please help? THANKS. |
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Ivonne Rinaldo - Miami, FL - USA |
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| Ivonne: In order to start another plant from an offshoot, there are a few things that must be done. First, you need to make sure the new plant division has at least 3 healthy roots. If it does, sterilize a sharp knife or clippers & separate the division from the main plant below the roots. If the roots are pretty long, you should soak the roots in water for a while to make them pliable. You should apply some type of fungicide to the cut on both plants. I use a small amount of Captan made into a paste with a little water. When you put the new division in the basket, it needs to be immobilized so that it cannot move. When you've mounted your new plant in the basket, you can feed & water the plant as you would the "mother " plant. After all that, you should have another lovely plant. Don't forget to make a duplicate tag for your new plant. Thanks for the question & for visiting the EEOS web site. |
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Bob Stipe |
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| Make sure your new kiki has at least 3 good roots attached to it. You might want to wait another month before you cut. You want to get a little closer to summer, when vandas really take off growing. |
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David Schaffter |
| To update the info on the Vanda Mellon Days with the folding or creasing leaves. I try to water my Vandas daily. I fertilize about every 2 weeks with a 20-14-13 fertilizer. I treat for thrips monthly with orthene. I use a fungicide every month or so (Physan 20) but not at the same time as the orthene. The Vanda is on an enclosed pool area with 35% screen. The plant is directly up against the house which should also decrease sun exposure. Also I noticed that the leaves are light green not as dark as my other Vandas. The roots are very healthy looking with nice green new tips. Maybe too much sun? Maybe I need to bring it to a meeting? |
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Elaine - Homestead, FL - USA |
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| Dear Elaine: Vandas and Ascocendas do best in about 50% shade. If you decrease the shade, you may have to water 1-2 times a day and fertilize weekly, depending on the plant and other factors. In your case, I would give your vanda more shade & try to keep it a little cooler. Make sure your orchid is getting good air movement, as this helps it stay cooler. If you bring your orchid to the meeting, we may be able to better diagnose the problem. |
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David Schaffter |
| I own a Vanda Mellon Days. The leaves are creasing and not standing up. Sort of bending in half. I have other Vandas that I treat the same way. What could I be doing wrong? |
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Elaine - Homestead, FL - USA |
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| Look at the roots to see if they are full & healthy. It sounds like the plant isn't getting enough water. Also, try growing the orchid in a more shady location, which also keeps it cooler. Sometimes our hot summers can stress some types of orchids. |
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David Schaffter |
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| First, Elaine says "...other vandas that I treat the same way...what could I be doing wrong?" But she doesn't elaborate on how she cares for the plants. We'd need to know what she's doing before we can speculate on possible problems with what she's doing/not doing. How is she watering? How often? Does she spray with anything? What and how often? Is the plant in a pot or a basket? How much light is it getting, etc... But, that said, the symptoms she describes are typical of water stress. The leaves aren't getting enough water... which suggests a problem at the roots, either too much water (the roots are rotten) or not enough water. No way to diagnose that until we know how she's watering. Dave's suggestion to move the plant into somewhat shadier conditions -- assuming the plant is being grown in very bright conditions -- is a good one, as she definitely needs to reduce the plant's stress levels. Without seeing the plant, and knowing more about the conditions in Elaine's growing area, it's difficult to diagnose the problem. |
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Julie - RF Orchids |
| I have a tall vanda that wants to topple over. I would like to cut it into two pieces. I know I have to have a least 3 good roots with each half but what do I put on the cut to prevent infection? |
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Pat - Miami, FL - USA |
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| Dear Pat:
You can make a paste out of Captan and/or dithane fungicide and cover both cuts. Also, you might want to wait and do the cutting in late spring so the plant will have all summer to adjust and put new roots. |
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David Schaffter |
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